Particularly when cold, when I accelerate in 1st the power seems to drop momentarily and it threatens to cut out unless I give it some heavy boot. Sometimes it does cut out when stopping at a junction. Same when going up or down the gears, for example doing 35 in 3rd and change up to 4th but the power dies. It gradually builds again and can get up to a good cruising speed after a while, also hates hills more than ever in this situation so definitely a loss of power. Running a standard 1600 type 1 and Solex carb, carb has been refurbished, new distributor and serviced regularly. When hot seems to run a lot better. I'm not mechanically minded so any suggestions of what it might be before I invest in some heavy labour charges?
Hi Pod I wont start posting a potential suspects list here the best thing is to go back to where you have it serviced and tell them that is it not running right after you last took it there (in a nice way of course) and let them have a look at it. Could be any number of things.
Ok so I cant help myself.......... Likely causes, crud in the carb (do you have an inline fuel filter?) Points need changinq/adjusting? Timing might be out? Autochoke not working or sticking or not set correctly for this time of year? Duff Earth strap inside the dizzy? Leaking gaskets on Inlet manifold, carb ? Could be anything? Timing is out, Valves need adjusting? Hence take it back to the place that worked on it last and ask them to have a peep, it will save you a lot of pain.
I had the same and mine was due to very low fuel pressure in one of the carbs, gutless with loss of power, got it rolling roaded and carbs rejetted and now its perfect
In addition to all the above, do you really expect a 40HP 1600 (that was designed 40+ years ago) in a bus to accelerate noticeably in 4th at 35mph? Try changing gear at 45 before you over-stress the poor thing and wear it out.
I know what you mean but I am going on how she was in the past, it's the dip in power that is the issue as I lose all momentum, it's like there's no response for a second or so
take you dizzy top off and suck the pipe going to carb from it , the insides of the dizzy should move ,If they don`t the vacume advance is kaput... and check the point gap it can make such a difference..
When I was young and ignorant I sold a car to a so-called "mate" because it wouldn't run right, like yours. Even though he hadn't looked at it, the bugger handed over the cash, produced a dizzy cap from his pocket, fitted it and roared off. Grrr
Mine gave these symptoms a couple of weeks after being services by a garage cuz I was short on time. No power, struggled on hills. Knew sometime was up. When I got back home, timing was out. I think they had set the timing and not tightend the distributor clamp back up fully. I could turn it by hand! Worth checking!
Hence my constant rant about not buying one of these junkers unless you can maintain it yourself or at least have a go at doing it yourself. Too many so called VW experts yet only a handful of actual good ones.
Also if it has the stock oil cooler check the vacuum pipe has not split between the carb and the vacuum flap on the air cleaner that feeds hot air to the intake from below the tinware when it is cold and the air flow increases as you floor it. Just like having split and crumbly fuel pipes... If this is a bit leaky the advance on the distributor might still work but the flap fails to move. Even if it is present there can be a bit of a lag on the flap moving.
that was one of the reasons Ollie was not running 'right' that and the spark plugs, the mechnic said they probally forgot to do it after the emissions test ............
