Just spoke to Mark at MCJ, he says they should Cancel as they are an exact CNC copy of the original although they have come across this problem before, he explained the theory of everything slipping downwards but he said the process of taking the old wheel off somtimes pulls the shaft upwards from the steering box end as there is play at this end but somtimes dont go back causing a larger gap. He says put the old wheel back on and see if the gap is the same, if it is the shaft has moved upward and will need gently tapping down, this should sort it, if not give them a ring.
Thanks for that - will have to have a look. I've only ever had non cancelling indicators as I had the wheel fitted before I picked up my van, but it would be nice. The guy who fitted the wheel said they don't so I didn't think to check with Mark - was having too much fun trying to go from 3rd to 2nd gear to worry about trivial things like that! :-
I just looked at my steering column and indeed, the gap between shroud and column is now nearly a full centimeter. Like everything else in my life, my shroud is sagging with age. And naturally it's the original bolt, so I will need to buy a bolt extractor. Once I have extracted said bolt, I can't wait to see how difficult it is to find a hex replacement. A metric hex replacement. In Texas. ??? I wish there was a way to type their accent down here. It's hilariously revolting. "Yoo wownna bahh uhh WHUT? MAYTREEK? Ain't that thayre maytreek seestum whut them commies use over thayre? Meester, I thank yoo bader git back in yore commie wagon and payddle eet back tuh China whare y'blong! Go awn now, GIT!" Then, of course, they start quoting the bible. It's SO embarrassing. :-[ Every day I swear I'm just going to get in my bus and just drive North as far as I can go.
Just so you know what to ask for it's a standard thread (1.25mm pitch) M8 Allen bolt. You probably call it a cap screw. You need it threaded the full length, and 30 mm long. These are usually tightened up with a 6 mm hex key.
