Fuel pump regulator

How are solving this problem?

 

I use two cheapo relays, idiot gen light activated one for when it's running, another relay off the starter signal to pump while turning over... and adding a 'reverse' extra switch to activate either of those when she's been sat a long time.... and a socket to plug in a remote starter /fuel pump/ignition feed tester when your sat at the noisy cupboard on the drive and can't be bothered walking to the front

I avoid the coil due to problems it gave my pertronix ..

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.. actually one cheapo one would do the activating signal just comes from multiple directions.. .. might drop a relay on the current re-wire...

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I'm not. If I fit the Carter (sometime), it won't take much time to top up the fuel system after a bit of cranking on the starter.

 

Do you use a Facet cube at present?

 

I've got a stock mechanical pump, which is fine, except if left for a while the whole system drains down, so needs a good amount of cranking to get the engine to fire. It's very tedious.

If it wasn't for that, I'd stick with the mechanical pump.

 

That might back feed 12V from the alt to the starter terminal and activate the starter. You go first.
I share all the other wires though, just not the activating ones.

 

It will work fine with a Pertronix, Accuspark, points etc but not with a 123.

 

It must be magic; a 321 906 059 C relay primed the carbs until I fitted the 123 distributor.

 

And there's me worrying I might have reverse lights on while driving..... I knew 2 was a good idea for some reason...

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Having tried it, I can only report what I observe, Sir.

 

Me too. You have a 123, if you revert to a lesser ignition and the relay will work.

 

Mine Pertronix is obviously inferior

 

Obviously.

 

It arrived....

 

That's the one!

 

I am about to prototype it up to see if it works, so that's encouraging to hear.

 

Right so.. @snotty and @Mark Darby, just to confirm

30 is 12v from the battery, with 87 going to the pump, this is the relay switch itself.

1 is to the negative side of the coil.

15 can be wired to (edited) the ignition system so gubbins is only powered when ignition on

31 is chassis ground

Make sense?

Edit: 30 being fused with something like a 10A?

 

Slightly disappointed you haven't taken it to pieces yet ...

15 needs to be wired to the ignition supply (on the coil), or the thing will be permanently powered. I'd take the "30" supply from the +12 stud on the starter, but battery's ok. 30 needs to be fused - I'd go for 15A. 87 is the drive to the pump. 31 is ground.

If you're trying it on the bench, note that dabbing +12V on the "1" pin won't trigger it - it needs about 30 - 60V to operate. I assume this comes from some weird back-EMF on the coil. It's a mystery, but it does work.

 

Thanks, yes, @snotty that's a good point on pin 15.

Have gone back and edited my summary.