Fuel pump regulator

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Chrisd, Dec 9, 2019.

  1. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks Snotty, will check those out.
     
  2. Petrol King's just the regulator (proper diaphragm one), Filter King has the filter bowl as well. Both widely used :thumbsup:
     
  3. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

  4. That looks like the one. Works fine on my van. Don't go for the larger one - they're bloody huge! Worth putting a extra filter before the electric pump anyway, stop it getting bunged up with tank crud.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  5. Betty the Bay

    Betty the Bay Supporter

    I've got that one, came as part as a manual pump replacement kit from Heritage.....been fine for a number of years ( probably will break tomorrow now.)
     
  6. DubCat

    DubCat Sponsor

    Chris definitely don't get this one. The first one I bought made a petrol fountain when I switched the pump on. The replacement worked but I never trusted it and took it off. Bear in mind the Carter rotary pump comes complete with built in regulator and a metal filter.
     
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  7. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Last edited: Dec 21, 2019
  8. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I was pondering that myself 77 Wetsy, but moved towards the regular as the pump solution states that it delivers fuel from 2.5psi up to 4.5psi and I would prefer something that delivers at 2.5psi. My preference is to keep things simple but all of the pumps have a range and the regulator seems to be able to deliver at a specific rate, or at least that's what the specs say
     
  9. The PetrolKing (first one in @77 Westy 's post) should do you nicely :thumbsup:
     
  10. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks Snotty and 77 Westy and everybody else. This advice is great and being able to discuss options invaluable. Talking of which, I understand the Weber ICT 34 prefer 2.5psi from what I've read. As the above pumps seem to deliver 3.5psi, which is a significant % percentage increase theoretically, I have veered away from them but practice I just don't know if it makes any difference.
     
    snotty likes this.
  11. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I’d keep it simple and not bother with a regulator if you don’t need one – it’s just something else that can go wrong. That Webcon pump is intended for all Weber carb applications, it runs at around 3.5 psi at the pump outlet and there’ll be a pressure drop between the pump and the carbs. If your Weber ICTs won’t hold that low pressure maybe you need to renew the float valves.

    FWIW I’ve been using a LP rotary pump for years with Weber IDFs without any issues and I’ll never fit a regulator.
     
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  12. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Th
    Thanks. I am aiming to fully service both carbs in the near future as well.

    I will do some research and thanks for the pointer.

    I'll update once I have done some more fettling.

    Cheers all and happy Winter Solstice.
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  13. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The problem with a straight inline regulator is that it has to block the incoming high pressure totally at zero flow, with the engine stopped. A small bit of dirt in the regulator and the output pressure can build up.

    Its better to use a pump like the Carter where there is a spring loaded bypass valve built in to the pump body that releases excess pressure back to the pump inlet, so that the maximum pressure anywhere in the system is the outlet from the pump.

    So when you stop the engine, the pressure in the fuel line to the carburettor cannot increase as there is no higher pressure the other side of the regulator waiting to leak.
     
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  14. DubCat

    DubCat Sponsor

    I didn't know about that, thanks Mike, glad I bought the right one :)
     
  15. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Just ordered the Carter pump and two service kits for my Weber's. Thanks all and will update when completed.
    Cheers
     
    mcswiggs, Valveandy, 77 Westy and 3 others like this.
  16. I had the same problem with these carbs but never fixed it and gave up after adjusting the float and replacing the needle valves. I don’t think I checked the fuel pressure...duh because I would often get gas in the crankcase even if the car had sat.

    Another thing to consider is phenolic spacers between the carbs and manifolds. Heat soak from a hot engine also caused this condition for me. I also suspect that a worn linkage can cause overfueling asI didn’t have this condition when the carbs were newer. They were really good simple reliable carbs for a long time.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  17. mcswiggs likes this.
  18. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Yes that is a great article. I'm planning to change my pump and filter once I get house DIY out if the way (bar humbug). Once that is done I'll check the pressure and decide what next. I plan and have ordered the Weber service kits and will check what E tubes etc they have when I'm servicing the carbs.
    I'm sad but I'm enjoying this as it is bringing back all if my memories of my mum's 1962 VW beetle and my old MGB.
     
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  19. We’re all a bit sad on here ;). You’re not alone.
     
  20. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Last job of the year.

    New Carter fuel pump and filter fitted. Pressure checked and output is about 3psi. Great.

    Sammy started after a bit of encouragement and now will check if fuel still finding its way into the sump overnight.

    Next job will be to service the carbs.

    But if she is looking health tomorrow, we might go the Brooklands classic car show, all of 5 minutes drive :)
     
    DubCat, Valveandy, CollyP and 2 others like this.

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