Exhaust Pack recommendations

No idea. I guess it's all very well having the T4 cooler but the ones I've seen fitted don't look to have a good air path to feed it (there isn't room), so not for me. Must be nigh on impossible to fit the foam engine seal past them as well as it's bad enough as it is! £25 for a cooler and then say same again for fitting and pipe if you know where to shop. Anyway I was just doing what Laurie told me too
It's fitted almost horizontally i.e. no direct air flow, but seems to work, but who knows as it's always been there. From previous ownership, I've never had a bus before, T1 or T4 that would cruise at 70 without getting slowly hotter and hotter, so this one is good for me.

 

You know me steve i like a tidy looking engine bay the less clutter the better in my eyes lol
Plus a cooler underneath my bus is very likely to get damged over the rough stuff and the last thing id want is to drop all my oil miles from anywhere on a rough track
Especially as the breakdown companys wont recover you from a green lane

Im just asking questions as they pop into my head all as research as it will be a long time before i can go for a capacity increase

 

Too right, this is a discussion forum I think.
Mine hangs a mere few mm below the chassis and I could put almost right up under the floor I think. It's quite small and being just in frnt of the rear wheels unlikely to hit anything, unlike your heater.If it did I'd take the hose off and fit it to the engine, refill the oil and keep below 70 on the way home.

 

I bet I could install a bypass for this event if I was serious. Switch to bypass for off-roading, then check I'd not mashed the cooler before getting back on the roads. Can't be difficult?

 

Ill be going for a capacity increase for torque for towing and clambering over the rough stuff
Rather than fast motorway driving

This would mean that id need the cooler operational whilst off road
I dont like the idea of a cooler in the engine bay as then your dissapating the heat from the oil into the cool zone of the engine and theres a chance the cycle of cooling the oil only to use that heat to warm the engine would end up in over heating anyway

The thought of using the type four cooler would be theres no chance of damaging it from flying stones etc and it discharges its heat out of the engine bay

Yup it is a discussion forum but sometimes i get the feeling people dont realise this

All my talk of this at the moment is hypothetical and its good to use the other forum members as sounding boards for my thoughts and ideas
My bus is being built with different needs to most so i cant always follow the tried and tested methods others have used
Its challenging at times but i do enjoy finding solutions to problems

Appologies zoe it appears ive hijacked your thread

 

paradox hijack away. I'm just humming over all the bits I don't understand anyway

 

Thanks lol

Dont worry about not uderstanding hun just keep asking lots of questions

No one understands it all at first and nobody ever knows it all but youll be suprised how much it all starts making sense the more you ask

 

You could get a oil cooler with a fan mounted to it (switches on with a thermo switch) and mount it above the gearbox!!

 

You see this is what a forums all about a place to exchange ideas
I cant recall off hand how much room is above there but i like the idea

Ive placed the fan housing back over my engine and oil cooler tonight and i see what steves saying theres not much room
I reckon i could remake and adapt the fan housing to fit a type 4 cooler in there with a reasonable amount of airflow over it
Also im lucky to have arms like mrs tickle so i still think i could fit the engine bay seal

To me having the entire engine and ancilleries in one easy droppable unit as the original type one was is a good thing
But if it wont cool enough then i will have to compramise and have an external cooler mounted elsewhere

Its actually good i cant afford a capacity increase for a while as it stops me making rash decisions and gives me time to look into lots of possibilities

Ive not actually decided the capacity im going for as yet although i do know theres no replacement for cubic displacement

What cc are the standard valve sizes ok up to?
Also am i correct in thinking smaller valve sizes will keep the torque nice and low but not breath aswell at the higher rpm?

I dont want a motorway or drag strip screamer i want an engine able to pull a small trailer of logs or a quad bike behind me

 

I'd be tempted to do like Steve has done, and go with the wasser cranked type 1... the increased stroke will give you more torque, plus you can stick with the stock valved heads... although I would fit stainless valves for a better flow past them!!

Purely from experience, a stroked motor works so much better in a van than a short stroke motor!!

Also with the wasser crank, the flywheel is held on with 5 bolts as opposed to one, so you get a more stable set-up less likely to failure

 

Yeah strokers the way forward for sure

Stainless valves have 3 angles i take it so new seats need fitting?
New seats needing fitting then i may aswell go for larger valves if it helps?

It will be type one ill be building as the parts are so much cheaper than type 4

Im not botherd about going above 70 mph but i want to be able to drag a trailer and climb hills without overheating or slowing down so much that trucks overtake me in the crawler lane

 

Can you get some pics of your installation please marc?

 

And it revs higher because the crank isn't weedy and made from cheese, waiting to snap. I'd get my snapped crank picture out again but i'm sure you've all seen it. It was snapped by a policeman (I thought they were supposed to be sensible?) He didn't know what he'd done but knew it was bad. I bought his bus. He was very open and tried to give me clues to what might have happened. "I'll be honest, I drive it with my foot to the floor in every gear and change gear only when it won't accelerate any more... all the time... I know I shouldn't. ". Typical copper actually thinking about it. lol (sorry coppers - I know there's a bunch of you on here. ) So I think we can conclude it's not good to over-rev a T1 one engine.

It will go up hills in 4th at 30 without a worry, but also accelerates nippy style at higher revs. Even if it didn't have the added cc's, changing into 4th at 60, gives it so much more chance than at 45. Yes Para, I know you'd prefer a low box, chunky tyres and a mountainside to go up slowly. Just saying the standard valves seem fine up to that point anyway. If i wanted to rev to 8000 no doubt I'd have to think again.

 

Standard valves with my worked heads will be fine then
Cheers steve

Thats saves me some big money then

Im not in competion with WoodyLubber 55 mph hour club im more intersted in dragging the warmth for my family during winter out of the woods

Im starting to get the impression i should have bought a landy fwd control ambulance instead of my bus

Hindsight is 20 20 vision though but not available to most