DRLA 36s and how to stop my bus backfiring?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by scrooge95, Sep 9, 2023.

  1. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    The long and painful saga of the twin Dells I bought on here back in the spring of 2022 really is the gift that keeps on giving... but I will get to the end, there is no giving up.

    Long story short (skipping all the rusty messy bits at the start of the year and the numerous replacement parts) my 1776cc type one just loves to pop and bang and backfire it's way through life on deceleration and idle. It gives a nice POP! once I turn the engine off and count to three.
    I think we've been here before on another of my HELP! threads, but I can't find it so lets start again here instead, if you don't mind.

    There doesn't appear to be any exhaust air leaks, and the pressure that the fuel pump puts out is a nice healthy 2.5psi.

    Lengthy techenders conversations came to the conclusion that it may well be the jetting - an oversized idle jet, and the possibility that the idle circuit might not even be in use - so way more fuel kicking around than is necessary when I'm not actually accelerating and driving.
    Forgive me if I've got this slightly wrong, it's very much a foreign language to me, but I think that was what @davidoft and @mikedjames were considering as a possibility.
    (as a little codicil, neither of them was pretending to be a Dell carb expert, just being helpful)

    We didn't do anything to actually look at the carbs there, only ruled out the idea that the float heights might be an issue by starving the engine of fuel and seeing if there was a sweet spot as the fuel level dropped. There wasn't.

    So today I've had the lid off my left hand carb and fiddled around to get the jet stacks out.
    I know from before they were fitted that the venturi / choke things are 30
    (To be fair, I'd prefer 28, but initially it seemed an idea to work with what was there.)

    So I'm looking for ideas, as I can either buy appropriate jets etc myself if what I've got seems wrong - but I'm not confident with the actual screw twiddling so may still have to employ a pro to get that part right.
    Or just go to a rolling road, which can see me in about 3 weeks time - but will charge about £400+ for the privilege. The obvious advantage though being that I don't have to buy a selection of jets until I get it right as they will have them.

    I drive like the old lady that I am, and don't really need something that 'goes like a stabbed rat' as @Dicky eloquently put it!
     
  2. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Photos from todays venture into the parts under the air filters.....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
  3. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    from this, I gather I've got
    IDLE 60
    MAIN 122
    AIR 180
    EMULSION 9164.3
    and I've not found a pump jet. Is that somewhere else?
    (VENTS are 30)
     
    iblaze likes this.
  4. Pretty sure pump jets are on the side of the carb and sort of enter in through the Venturi. edit you can see them in your photos above. Brass bit sticking out through the Venturi into the big hole above the butterfly 'flap'
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2023
    scrooge95 likes this.
  5. Sometimes what is stamped on the idle and main jets may not be correct.

    People drill them out to make them bigger, the convention is to scratch through the numbers to show they have been altered.

    So yours are probably what they say they are.
     
  6. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Yeah I did wonder about that. The idle jet certainly looks like the '60' is engraved by hand rather than stamped on like the others. But maybe that's how it is?
    I'm googling pump jet location....
     
  7. I'd find a cheaper rolling Rd as I've never paid even half of that.

    They will be able to measure air fuel ratio and 02 (?) throughout the rev range, not just at wide open throttle.

    They will be able to change jets to the optimum for your engine and adjust the ignition timing etc.

    Make sure your valve clearances are spot on before you go.
     
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  8. I've got a diagram somewhere I can post later
     
  9. Your Venturi are too big and your mains are too small for starters ..A rolling road will most likely not get you the results you want as they most probably won’t have a ton of different size jets . My 36 run so sweet on my 1700 type 4 but I used a lamda sensor to get them right
     
    Zed, scrooge95 and paulcalf like this.
  10. One thing you can check easily enough is the idle jet function on each cylinder.

    I'd suggest having a friend there and some rubber gloves.

    Go for a spin until engine is warm.

    Then remove the ht leads one at a time and see if there are any changes in engine idle speed.

    I gave myself a shock when I tried this at the spark plug end.....

    So I'd remove them all at distributor cap (with the engine off). Leave them over the distributor but not actually connected.

    Put your rubber gloves on and get some long nose pliers.

    Start the engine.

    Lift cylinder ones ht lead off and listen for a change in idle speed. It should drop.

    Put it back on then move onto the cylinder 2 and so on.

    You may find that the engine idle speed doesn't change when you move one particular ht lead and then that might show you have an issue with a particular idle circuit.

    Others will probably advise there are far better ways to do this, but I found this easier than removing the leads from the spark plug end!

    It may show you nothing and may be more useful for finding blocked idle jets than the cause of your backfire.

    Worth knowing though
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  11. There isn't much room above the carbs in my engine bay so I found long idle jet holders very useful.

    Have you got a pdf of the dellorto book from CB performance it has some useful info. There jet sizing info may not be correct for Europe though.

    I can email you it if you remind me of your address by pme
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  12. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Yes, I think long idle jet holders would probably be an advantage, if only for the sake of my neighbours who have probably learnt a few new swearwords this morning until I realised it was easier with the main stack out of the way!
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  13. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Well, I know what my pump jets are now.
    As a side note to self: never ever remove the pump jet in situ. Getting the wibbly wobbly end bit back through the teeny tiny hole into the venturi when you can't see what you're doing is not good for one's mental health. But just when I was about to give up, it went back in. I need a nice cup of tea and a lie down now.
     
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  14. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    [​IMG]
    33 apparently.
     
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  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    And your .3 emulsion tube is your biggest problem, you need .2's before you do anything else. The .1's plus adjusting the idle mix will cure all your problems. I'd sort them out if you weren't so far away.
    I'd also go for the 28's so...
    28 venturis
    .2 emulsions
    60 idle are fine for now
    180 main airs are correct
    Set the mains after you've done ALL that on a RR who should charge more like £100 or LESS - £400? they saw you coming.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2023
    snotty, scrooge95 and paulcalf like this.
  16. This was Eurocarb's reply to my enquiry about vents & jet sizes for my 2110cc type one engine.
    It may have some relevant info

    Hope they don't mind. I've removed their personal info.

    Thank you for all the info - usually we offer the below specs based on engine size but the choice of main venturi size will impact where you power is.

    [​IMG]

    The smaller your main venturi (chokes in the above table) the better your low end torque and response but the lower your max RPM. Given what you've said it sounds like you would get better performance out of the 30mm setting instead of the 32mm.

    The air correctors can probably stay at 175, they are close enough and only really impact higher end running - but the idle jet, main jet and chokes will be the important items to consider.

    The jets need to match the choke size so I would advise changing the jets if you alter the choke size. The above specs are general and unfortunately can't account for engine modification but for approximately 95% of setups it should run well.

    Kind Regards,

    Eurocarb
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Sorry yes .2 is the one, I've edited my post.
    I have some 29 DRLA 36 vents here made from OG Dellorto 28's if you want them. No use to me - £20 posted?
    Don't let Eurocarb tell you DRLA 40 vents fit - they do physically fit but create a step that messes with the air flow.
     
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  18. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Thanks @Zed
    I'm not sure about 28 vents modified to 29? Am I just confusing the issue more with something sitting in the middle of two norms? Thank you so much for the offer though.
    This is all rather above my head, but I shall look at sorting the emulsion tubes whatever else I do. I was rather surprised to see the .3 as everything I've read says .2

    The rolling road chap appears to be somewhat 'specialist' with old cars, rather than somewhere that largely deals with remapping Audi and BMW to get 3000bhp and a top speed of sound, but whether that is worth a massive increase in price??
     
  19. there must be another rolling rd that won't take your pants down!
     
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  20. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    Hopefully!

    Thanks for sending over the diagrams etc... I meant to PM my email address earlier, and then got caught up in other things...
     
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