as with all parts it seems there are different prices for the same thing I've seen some CV joints for about £15 and another for over £40 from the same supplier - is there a difference in quality? I've been cleaning my CV joints ready to repack with grease and reinstall, 3 are fine but one looks like it has overheated at some point noticable by the blueing around the edge so I'm going to change it ....and while I'm on it.....those circlips that hold the CV joint to the drive shaft .....why cant they use normal circlips you can get a propper set of pliers onto ....took me ages to refit 2 of them.......and covered in new CV grease makes things twice at hard!!!
The bluing is where they have been induction hardened .... they all should have it .... its your balls that go blue when knackered
I use a pair of mini pry bars to get the circlip back on. Its possible to hold them in one hand and squeeze to open the clip and then slide it down with a screwdriver in the other hand. Put a clear poly bag on top coz if it pings it'll go for miles or in yer eye.
You can also tap the clip on with a socket... no need to belt it, just some firm taps and it'll go over the end of the shaft as the shaft end is chamfered
Joint looks ok to me. Just check for wear marks in the spiral "tracks" and pitting on the balls. If they're ok, just grease 'em up & put them back. Well greased, they should last forever. Also worth checking whether the driveshaft splines are worn - they should be a snug fit in the CV inners. If they're loose/sloppy, they're worn.
thanks guys ....so the CV joint is ok ? ....the others didnt have that blueing ring .....but if your all in agreement then it will go back on and save me £15-£40 splines were fine, had to use a puller to get them off originally....but theres no slop in them so alls good I'll google them ....I used very short handle flat head pliers in the end, to spread them .......and those new boots are a tight fit ...... I did punch my self in the face trying to get them on and then slipping ....might even have improved my looks I did notice they dont seem as long as the originals though - is this because the originals have stretched or the new ones are too short (I did by premium GSF ones)
just found this useful little link while googling snap ring pliers lol http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm
as this seems like a relevant thread, can i ask which ones from where are the best? because my bus need all of them doing...
Mine came in a blue box - so god knows - got em form A Schofields and cost about £40.00 inc boots and bolts I had a problem getting the circlips on because I put on the small washer before the Cv joints goes on, and could not even see the grove to get the circlip in. Spent ages messing - but did it in the end - some folk say leave them off!!
mine had the washers on....so I refitted the new ones ...mine must have been different as I could see the circlip groove
last questions should I re use or replace the 2 intact CV boots I have? ....they dont show signs of perishing .....or should I just replace them should I used copper grease on the CV to half shaft/gear box bolts? or lock tight?
On a serious note, for anyone following this thread. I replaced 4 CV joints with new ones and they came with 4 gaskets. Throw these away if yours come with them. I fitted them, torqued the bolts properly and then drove 30 miles and re-torqued them. I then headed to spring camp. On the return journey all 24 bolts had come loose (finger tight) and one shaft fell off. I am sure that the gaskets compressed slightly and allowed the bolts to come loose, they have now been removed and fitted dry.
