CV Joint questions

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by burnzdog, Jul 16, 2019.

  1. So was there a domed washer fitted to the shaft under the joint?
    If not, and the joint goes on tightly up to the shoulder and there is just enough room to get the circlip into the groove then happy days.
    If there is space beneath the circlip, after you've fitted the joint, about washer thickness, then you've got a fight on your hands to fit it correctly.
    They may not have been done correctly previously...bear that in mind!

    Edit. Hit the inner race when the joint is.on the shaft with a hammer on a socket thats bigger than the shaft to seat to joint, then youll see how much space there is for the circlip and possibly the spring spacer/washer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2019
  2. Haha....would have been so much easier if you'd taken the diff out...but you didn't want to hear that did you lol.
    Just the other side now....
     
    nobayinhell likes this.
  3. So attach the joint to the diff and it it from the hub? Sorry not quite sure what you mean.
     
  4. No with the joint not fitted, put a big socket or similar, upside down over the shaft end and twaaattt it with a hammer to seat the joint on the shaft
     
  5. Joint not fitted to the diff I mean, but fitted to the shaft...sorry if I confused you..
     
  6. Trouble is I need something the other end to go over the shaft on the CV end and whack it from the hub end. I was able to do that but I can't get it go far enough for the spline. Mission impossible.
     
  7. 'sall gone very quiet @burnzdog , how ya getting on?
     
  8. Taking my time... Work resumes tomorrow. Took whole shaft out so replace joint and put it back.
     
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  9. You (now) know it makes sense...:thumbsup:
     
  10. Having thought about the idea of lowering the diff Im still at a loss when considering how this would have been any easier? No that it matters, but surely you still have to take out the shaft to remove and reassemble the inner joint?
     
  11. Simply because its easy to disconnect the 6 M8 bolts on the prop flange and the 3 mounts for the differential and drop it out of the way.
    With it out of the way you have room to knock both shafts out of the hubs without disturbing anything else. I said right at the beginning that its better and easier to take the shafts out and do them on the bench:rolleyes:
    You had both shafts to do so it made sense.
    Irrelevant anyway as you decided to try and do the job with the shaft in situ initially and tackle one side at a time...:)
     
  12. Can you tell they right way this goes in please? The center part with the bevelled edge goes towards shaft? And does it matter which way the lines on the edge go?

    Thanks
     
  13. Yep, think I said above, the bevel towards the shaft and the rings on the outer race towards the diff. As you have it...:thumbsup:
    Remember to check for the diff spacers, they may be stuck in the flange so lever them out with a small screwdriver and give it all a good clean under there...
    Mucky job:(
     
    burnzdog likes this.
  14. Another question..

    Brake caliper is that the correct position for small rubber things. Is that the correct way round?
     
  15. Pack them with grease, its not a massive amount, both sides and stick a nitrile or latex or similar glove over the joint as you wrestle it all back in. The glove will help to keep it clean and all together.
    Its proper frustrating if the joint falls apart as you instal it, ask me how I know....
     
    burnzdog likes this.
  16. Think so. Theyre ATE calipers by the look and that concertina boot protects the steel pin
     
  17. Like this, looks right?
     

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