CV Joint questions

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by burnzdog, Jul 16, 2019.

  1. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor


    Can’t you unbolt the inner cv , swing the shaft, get the steering on full lock and pull the shaft out or just pull the bottom ball joint off ?
     
    burnzdog likes this.
  2. So the pic above is the inner. That circlip is accessible, but only with the diff out. If the diff is out, why wouldnt you just tap the whole shaft out and do it cleanly on the bench.

    Please explain diff out?
     
  3. I've done this before on my rear inner CV ...I didn't have to take the out off, so what is different? (Ignorance is.bliss!)
     
  4. This is exactly what I did.

     
  5. I don't think so. There is too much in the way. If you're only doing one side, you would leave the diff in but get the hub carrier off the upper wishbone, remove the caliper, steering ball joint and drop link, plus remove the inner cv bolts and still drive the front outer out of the hub carrier.
    But....thats a lot of work...and....
    the OP has split boots both sides.
    So, its way easier to drop the diff out of the way and remove both shafts...without disturbing the hub carrier, ball joints and brake caliper!
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2019
  6. Your syncro has a front differential, diff, the thing that looks like a mini gearbox between the front drive shafts.
    Via the prop, thats what makes it 4wd:thumbsup:
    Do you have the Bentley manual for the syncro?
     
  7. @davidoft , @burnzdog , look under the front of your vehicles. The subframe is in the way so you cant manoeuvre the shafts like you can on the rear?
     
  8. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    But it’s dark outside
     
    Valveandy likes this.
  9. Hehe, fool. Thought you had fabulous night vision.
    I've just been out polishing the bay, looks shiny in the dark x
     
  10. Hmmm....Bentley. no. Where the F. What the F. Until tomorrow. Thank you for your info.
     
  11. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor


    In the morning you will see that you missed half ;)
     
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  12. burnzdog likes this.
  13. "syncro front Axles can be removed entirely by popping the upper ball joint off and disconnecting the sway bar..." Sounds like an option?
     
    theBusmonkey and davidoft like this.
  14. Yep, thats part of the method I described above. Steering ball joint and drop link.
    That allows the hub carrier to swivel but the caliper and hose may restict the hub swinging all the way out, thats why its easier to take the caliper off. You'll still need to ease the top ball joint out of the wishbone.
    Thats one side, assuming its all in good condition. Do the same on the other
    For me, it was easier to remove the differential because I had both sides to do.
    As I said, its easy, not difficult! whichever way you decide to do it...
     
  15. If its all in good condition and been apart recently then:thumbsup:
    However, if the ball joints are old, the rubber bushes on the drop links are perished, the caliper bolts seized then it could be expensive.
    Therefore, the least intrusive may be to take out the diff and not disturb the rest.
    Your car, your choice as only you can judge.
    Just giving you options based on your ability, tools, confidence and condition of the car.
    Let us know how you got on. If theres a better and easier way, share it coz I'm all for less work:thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
    nicktuft likes this.
  16. Well they are probably going to be a pig so blow torch at the ready.

    I know you keep mentioning diff, it's not something I've done, can you be a bit more specific on how I do this? Ive bit done much since getting the syncro but what I have done always seems to take alot longer as everthing is in the bloody way. Took me 4 hours to change the starter motor.


     
  17. Haha. Thats not bad going. They say if you can do a syncro starter motor, you can do anything. Sorted then!:thumbsup:
    Why not post some pics up of whats under there. Condition of the ball joints, bushes etc and the prop connection to the diff.
    Is it RHD? If so and its a UK vehicle it'll have a diff lock. Does that work, more pics of what's around it....
    Just familiarise yourself with how it all looks and whether it appears to want to come apart.
     
  18. theBusmonkey likes this.
  19. Ok, that all looks pretty decent. Its dry, but not too corroded. The drop links have yellow poly bushes on so thats an upgrade you dont need to worry about. And it also means they'll come apart without too much grief.
    Ball joint spacers on the upper wishbone so again, its been apart as its not stock.
    The caliper bolts look in good nick as do the steering ball joints.
    The angles of the shafts and boots look a little stressed, but that may just be camera angle. Coz its lifted, with modified suspension to run big tyres, there is a payback which may mean the joints and boots are on their limits. That may be the cause of the inner boot split.
    Anyway, thats for the future coz right now the priority is to sort the boots and get the ticket...
     
    burnzdog likes this.
  20. ...as its lhd, non locker, its even easier to remove the front diff. Your choice is either to take it slow and steady and do one side at a time or to go bolllockx and dive in, learn a bit and do both!
     
    nicktuft likes this.

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