Compression issue? Parts and guide to fix

To be honest I didnt realise I could get to the cam with out taking the heads off but that said zedders is completely right I'd say that the springs are about 1.5mm higher just like little nellie's photo so might have been a blessing I did

 

You can’t, the heads need to come off and the crankcase split to get the cam out.

Is the pic the cam from your engine or a used cam you have bought? And I’d forgotten you have a hydraulic cam and lifters; not much choice new and matching lifters will make a hole in your budget. You could convert to a solid cam and lifters but it’s not a direct swap - you’d also need to change the pushrods.

 

The cam I took a photos of is a second hand one I bought. Looking at the cam through the Conrod opening I can see there is scoring on the lobs of mine

 

there’s always marks in cars, if it’s worn away it will be pretty obvious, but splitting the case seriously escalates costs son, make sure you’re certain the cam is toast

 

You can actually leave one side of the engine almost completely built up (if you know it's good) and split the case. If I ever changed my cam for another very mild I'd do this.
I've done it to replace the o-ring on the oil pick up tube. I didn't change any other parts other than exhaust gaskets.

 

You can, but I wouldn’t.

 

So after a long time trying I finally managed to get a piston head off and taken a photo of the lobe looks pretty bad to me

Also I have found a decent second hand head for 90 is that good?

 

That's knackered.

 

I'm thinking I might rebuild the right hand side as it was getting around 150 psi 99% sure that the cams dead and I need a new cylinder head. Then split the engine

Or is it worth changing the piston rings now on both sides

 

You can be 100% sure that cam is fubar.

90 quid for a head is cheap and it might be cheap for a reason. And are you sure it is the same as yours? There are several type 4 heads and you probably have square port – show us a pic of the exhaust port on the existing head.

Rings are cheap and worth changing if you have the pistons off - deglaze the cylinder bores and check the new ring end gaps.

 

I have oval ports and this head has the same number as mine under the springs?
I have posted the photos of it

 

It looks okay but it's not the same as yours – look at the combustion chamber shape.

 

And this is why before I buy anything I'll come here haha

 

Doing so will save you a lot of money,time and heartache

 

...and smaller barrel size.

 

And the studs for the exhaust look like they've sheared off I those pics, could be out and full of something, but if a bit of stud is still in there it's a begger to get out..

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

 

Well spotted.

 

Also .. if the metal top of the piston is roughened and covered in little blobs of metal - that could be detonation down to timing and mixture melting bits off and throwing them around.. the edge of the piston looks rough but it might just be carbon deposits..

When you rebuild it , it almost certainly needs a good check over everything around the outside of the engine - vacuum leaks, timing and mixture, to avoid a repeat showing.
Think about a CHT gauge too then you get a warning.

 

I may have a spare head, what’s the part number in the top, I’ll take a look

 

022.101.372G?