‘76/8 oval port FI heads, CHT sensor on one side, 37.5mm inlet valve, 33mm exhaust - possibly sodium filled.
I sneered a couple of mine I was going to weld a bolt on to the thread or penetrating lube to get off
If you can get your sheared studs out you might be able to just get new seats fitted in your own heads for a similar price to an unknown quantity head off Ebay but then youd be heading down the replace guides and new valves route too before you know it head skimmed to tidy up and end up near a new head cost..... Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
I think for right now I will try and find the best used one I can, hopefully once I'm done I can get a couple of years use then think about a complete stripe and rebuild once I have saved up
Stick a wanted in the parts section here and Volksone if Davidoft can't sort you out.. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
A tip, if it's not too late already, is to buy a load of zip lock plastic bags and a sharpie marker pen. As you remove parts, bag them up and label them with the pen. Ideally you want everything to go back exactly where it came from. It will not only help to keep the parts clean, but also help when you come to reassemble. Coat any internal parts with clean oil before bagging to help prevent corrosion
Not going to lie I wish I had done that, in a couple of weeks when my repair fails and i have to start again i will do that ha. Does anyone have any advise on what I should do next?
^ stop and carry out a thorough inspection of all the parts you have, checking out was is good & okay to refit. Clean everything up, label and bag up for safe keeping. Look at what is damaged and needs attention ie head, cam, followers etc and look at costs comparing quick fix versus a thorough rebuild. You have time, we all have time.
^ what they say ^ Bag , label, clean, relabel while you half remember where things come from.. once clean, measure, assess, as said wd40 or oil them light to stop rusting or paint the outside bits as that helps look like it's going in the right direction for moral.. Don't rush into buying anything untill your happy you need it and it's right or you'll end up with boxes of stuff you have to ebay Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
This is the parts list I am thinking at the moment but I'm sure itll grow soon haha. Set of new lifters Piston rings Replacement cam(second hand obtained) Replacement cylinder head New oil filter Seals and gaskets.
parts to think about: Dipstick tube boot Engine mount rubbers Alternator boot clutch / pressure plate ** although not essential, you have the motor out and these can be visually inspected
I don't think exhaust gaskets are part of the gasket set, you need to check. Also there used to be a choice of gasket set either including or not the two rotating shaft seals. Do some homework or could either end up short or with doubles of some parts. It might pay to speak to the supplier. Yesterday I almost spent £20 on a Vintage Speed silencer fitting kit. There was no mention on the Website that the fitting kit came with the exhaust but I asked and it does. £20 saved.
Looking through the air intake to the cylinder head I can see what you mean about it being pounded in, do you think the warn cam could have made this happen
Would it be a case of things going wrong over a long time slowly that have finally got the the point where it's just given up?
Possibly. It could have been loose for years. Does the damaged cam lobe correspond to the sunken valve? It sinking might have put out the adjustment which may have been a factor in the cam wear if left unattended for a spell.