1600cc. New heads and rings, compression between 125-130 psi on all 4. What do you think. It ran better before I stripped it unfortunately.
above 110 and even on all four is good sign...as PW suggested, the rings will scrub in once you've ragged it for a while...i found on mine (with roller rockers) that the valve clearances needed redoing after initial run in....not budged since
And did you check the deck height with the new cylinders was the same as the old ones ? If you dropped the compression ratio by accident (although the 125PSI figure says maybe its OK) then this may be one possible cause of the new parts performing apparently worse than the old. I had exactly the same effect - I went from an engine with leaky rings and out-of-spec endfloat to one that was all in spec with new pistons and cylinders in stages. I replaced the engine block crank and flywheel with a 'new' AS21 set from 1979 that had suffered a burnt exhaust valve a long time ago, ahd was recovered from a long sleep with 20mm of water in the case. I only changed over because the flywheel dowels ovalled their holes for the second time and the clutch got covered in gearbox oil at the same time... I reused the cylinder heads in all cases - stock Autolinea with no step machined in heads bought in 2010. In order of performance from best to worst 1. Completely Worn engine 2. 'new' engine block/crank with recycled worn pistons/cylinders from the original set up. 3. 'new' engine new pistons/cylinders , 1.5mm deck height 4 'new' engine new pistons/cylinders, 2.5mm deck height No. 2 about 2mph slower than the 'best' engine on the Southwick Road up to the top of Portsdown Hill. I can get to the top in 4th at about 47mph. This is probably about the same as the No. 1 engine here.
Feels like an air leak. Unfortunately it seems to be one of those situations where several problems have conspired to confuse me(easily done). The van starts and idles fine, but when driving bogs down if you put your foot down, you sort of have to coax it up to speed. It's also really gutless and the tinware above the exhaust got too hot to touch after a 10 min run. I think the servo is kippered, so disconnected it and blanked the take of, but the problem was still there. Next noticed that air was drawing through the dissy vacuum meaning I guess that the diaphragm is split. It's a brand new dissy so you automatically assume it's ok. Put an 009 dissy on and it runs really well now, as in doesn't feel gutless, but still has the bog down/ flat spot thing although not as bad. I know you get this a bit with non svda dissys anyway, but still not right. I think there's still a leak somewhere.
T1 manifolds can be arse, the early ended up with twin ICT's after totally failing to get it to run right with a single solex.
My worry now is that it's drawing air in round the head/manifold gasket. I noticed when I put the heads on that there were machine marks on the head surface. I thought they'd be ok, but now I'm not so sure
It's predictive text - he meant If you have a property in a block of flats, wear blue and a nice check shirt. Clean any faeces on the heads wearing marigolds. Hope that helps.
Blue = Engineers Blue If you colour one of the (either head or manifold) surfaces with blue, pop the head/manifold together and it will show any low spots on the other non coated half. These will not get any blue - the high spots will need making low to fully blue both halves.
Engineer's blue is a bit OTT when there will be a gasket fitted? Fine if you have it I suppose. So I can pretty well cut one leak point out, I use the Empi thick fibre manifold gaskets. Highly recommended, I've never had a leak with them.
I'm assuming you've run it up to temperature....and let it cool down properly...as in stone cold...retighten the manifold nuts then try it again... boot it up again, let it warm up and have a bottle of calor gas handy....direct the tube at the manifold...if it picks up there's your problem...don't worry, it's perfectly safe and won't do any damage
Most of it's not petrol friendly. In fact I've never found anything that would be at least lossened by petrol. You shouldn't need sealant - the steel gaskets should be ok it's sitting flush and evenly tightened.
I've used the Permatex hi temp copper stuff on head gaskets (motorbikes and other cars) with good results in the past...but for the bus intake, I bought some good quality fibre gasket paper and made my own, with a cheap circle cutting compass off fleabay...comes in handy if you're removing carbs/manifolds a few times for whatever reason http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jakar-Com...571833?hash=item2c9a8e3479:g:FqIAAOSwBLlVRPHj http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-TEMP...hash=item20f3041de0:m:mLx-dnrlNo7vy4oL9YbdMog
