Bears Motorsport interesting!

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Lardy, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. Apparently not, has to be similar box.
     
  2. Lardy

    I have no idea exactly what your gearbox dilema is, but hope my experience with a rebuilt bears gearbox helps.

    I was trying to decide between:
    6 Rib box, £600ish, but unknown condition on a 40 year old box
    or
    freeway flyer - brand new
    or
    getting mine rebuilt

    Here is the thread about it
    http://thelatebay.com/index.php?thr...ers-with-big-engines.22509/page-2#post-430087

    Summary:
    I got bears to rebuild me a 002 gearbox, but with the 4.57 ring and pinion. I learnt from trikky2 on earlybay that it's really only the final drive that alters the overall gearing. So rather than spend loads on an unknown 6 rib, i spent more on a rebuilt one with the same final drive as a 6 rib box.
    Some people say a 6 rib is a stronger box than an 002, Paul at bears pointed out that gearboxes rarely break and i should only really consider that if i was absolutely hammering it - eg racing!

    Here is some useful information on gearbox ratios (thanks to Trikky2 again)

    Here is a summary of the different gearboxes out there but, as I said, its really only the final drive that changes the overall gearing.

    1.6 liter and 1.7 liter
    1st 3.80
    2nd 2.06
    3rd 1.26
    4th 0.89
    final drive 5.375
    Overall in top 4.407


    1.8 liter
    1st 3.78
    2nd 2.06
    3rd 1.26
    4th 0.89
    Final drive 4.86


    2 liter
    1st 3.78
    2nd 2.06
    3rd 1.26
    Top 0.88
    final drive 4.57
    Overall in top 4.02


    Final drive ratios for all gearboxes; 95%of 1-4th gearsets are the same just the dif that changes much

    1600 engine

    CA - 5.375 68-71

    CB - 5.857 68-71

    CC - 5.375 68-71

    CD - 5.857 68-71

    CE - 5.428 72-75

    CF - 5.857 72-75

    CG - 5.375 72-75

    CH - 5.857 72-75



    1700 engine

    CK - 5.375 72-73

    CL - 5.375 72-73



    1800 engine

    CM - 4.857 74-75

    CN - 4.857 74-75



    2000 engine

    CP - 4.571 76-79

    CT - 4.571 76-79



    1600 engine

    CU - 5.428 76-79

    CV - 5.428 76-79

    CW - 5.857 76-79

    CX - 5.857 76-79

    Code Engine 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Rev. Final Years
    CA 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.61 5.375 68-71
    CB 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.61 5.857 68-71
    CC 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.61 5.375 68-71
    CD 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.61 5.857 68-71
    CE 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.80 5.428 72-75
    CF 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.80 5.857 72-75
    CG 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.80 5.375 72-75
    CH 1600 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.80 5.857 72-75
    CK 1700 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.80 5.375 72-73
    CL 1700 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.80 5.375 72-75
    CM 1800 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.89 3.80 4.857 74-75
    CN 1800 3.80 2.06 1.26 0.89 3.80 4.857 72-75
    CP 2000 3.78 2.06 1.26 0.88 3.28 4.571 76-79
    CT 2000 3.78 2.06 1.26 0.88 3.28 4.571 76-79
    CU 1600 3.78 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.28 5.428 76-79
    CV 1600 3.78 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.28 5.428 76-79
    CW 1600 3.78 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.28 5.857 76-79
    CX 1600 3.78 2.06 1.26 0.82 3.28 5.857 76-79
     
    chilli pepper and Silver like this.
  3. I've no idea what all of this means. My van has always been a 2 litre but for some reason, at some point in its past was fitted with a CU gearbox. It seemed fine though, and ran well. I'm not sure though if it was an altered box, as there is no history from before 2001. What, if any, are the dangers / pitfalls of running a 2 litre engine with a 1600 gearbox?
     
  4. Neptuneblue i doubt there are any pitfalls running a 2l engine with a 1600 gearbox. If it it drives OK i wouldn't mess about with it. People with proper technical knowledge will be along to correct me if that is wrong!

    My reply was for Lardy. My gearbox experience was based on my powerful engine and 1600 gearbox, i was in 4th gear by about 30mph. So i needed a new box that was better suited to the engine and that didn't run out of gears. Everyone said get a 6 rib, thay are v expensive and you have no idea what they are like inside, hence why i got rebuilt gearbox with equivalent ratio to the 6 rib.

    I hope that helps

    if its not broke then don't try to fix it!
     
  5. I also don't know what it means but do see that the ratios are pretty similar til the final drives. Paul at bears told me similar that there's not a great deal if difference in the gearboxes like you said and a guy I know also said about gearboxes rarely going wrong. I don't wanna be going into fourth at 30mph so I reckon the best thing to do will be to rebuild the existing 1600 box, it'll cure the whining noise and give me the final drive I'm after.
    Did you change you're R&P too then? You mind me asking if the price above was the same?
     
  6. Cheers :)
    Yep sorry for hijacking just interested to see if I should be worried. I don't have to change to fourth til around 40mph so quite happy it did work quite well. :)

    Great to know there's a solution if needed @Lardy :)
     
    Lardy likes this.
  7. I think we are all a bit confused here and its probably my fault with the massive post !
    I don't know your reasons for wanting to change the gearbox/ r&p. Are you currently happy with how it all drives?

    The reason for my need for new gearbox was because I'd changed the engine to a massive one, which meant the old gearbox was in 4th at 30 mph. Ish. On the motorway it was doing about 4000 rpm at 70 mph.

    So I got new gearbox from bears with different r&p / final drive etc, which was more suited for new engine. 3200rpm ish at 70mph now.

    Price the same. I got new gearbox then gave them my old one and got the surcharge I'd paid refunded.

    I can recommend bears for a gearbox.

    I have no idea if you need a new gearbox or different r&p to your current set up. I have no idea of your engine power or wheel and tyres size or driving style etc

    My fingers are hurting typing on my phone, so I'm out of here for now!
     
  8. You're alrite fella, it's a 1600 box and a 2ltr engine, whining in drive like a pre 1930's motor and changing to 4th by 30 mph same as you had.
    That's the issues and just been looking to see what the best option is in regards to new or used boxes.
    Sounds like no the Bears option is best one really, then I can have the ratios right.
    Cheers for the info, it has been of help :thumbsup:
     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I changed into 4th at 50 with my 3 rib box. Dunno what all this 30mph stuff is about.
    The ratios are different, but not so different that a 3 rib belongs in a tractor. I drove about quite happily with mine for 2 years until a 6 rib came up at the right money at a time I could afford it. Despite some being more suitable, any gearbox will do the job.
     
    Neptuneblue likes this.
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    @Lardy you might find you also have not only a 3-rib box, but that they put a smaller flywheel and clutch to fit in the 3 rib bell housing and also a shorter starter motor than you'd need for a 6 rib.
    Your shopping list in reality might be
    6 rib box
    228mm flywheel
    228mm clutch kit
    late starter motor
     
  11. Unless it's a post 76 3 rib, then the 228 fits no bother at all :lol:
     
  12. I just want it to work! Getting fed up with one bloody thing after another :(
     
    Neptuneblue likes this.
  13. I know the feeling. :( hope your're sorted soon :)
     
  14. Cheers fella :)
     
  15. Likewise I'm changing into 4th at around 50mph, those changing at 30 is down to driving style not engine selection
    :)
     
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    When I get my balanced engine back in, I'll be in 3rd until 70mph+ (6-rib - it does make some difference).
     
  17. I can get close to that today but its pushing it a bit!! 5o will do for now
    :)
     
  18.  
  19. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Anyone know what bus a DK box was fitted to? T3?
     

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