Air Leak - Backfire/ popping exhaust on decelleration

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by PSG, Jul 20, 2016.

  1. PSG

    PSG

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
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  2. Doesn't look like it's leaked through that crack...just the seal past the copper ring. When you put new in torch them first apparently...cherry red and lem them cool down!

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  3. PSG

    PSG

    Yeah that's what I read. Best go and find a torch somewhere. $$
     
  4. ...and if you clean the ends of the exchanger where it mates with a file take the same amount off the shoulder bits or they'll bottom out before it seals... so they say..

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  5. PSG

    PSG

    Yeah I just red the rat well article it's a goodun
     
  6. Id be putting a straight edge across your heat exchangers and making sure all the flanges are square. That last side looks like theyre all over the shop.

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  7. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    Dig out the brass seals and clean the area around them throughly, looks a bit black( sooty) ,that is tbe carbs being too rich a mixture and gases are igniting in exhaust , studs look OK although someone has put exhaust paste in there, dig that out and clean, once the HE are fixed and with new brass ovals you'll be good to go, after a carb adjustment that is
     
  8. PSG

    PSG

    Am I good to start up engine and move the camper out the workshop? It's in the way. Lol. [​IMG]
     
  9. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    Well it's going to make a racket, can't you get someone to help push it
     
  10. PSG

    PSG

    I can push it out I am an animal. But getting it back in it is on a slight ramp. I could probably do it if I don't need a poo. If it's just a racket then I'm not mad bothered, just want to be safe.
     
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  11. :lol:
     
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  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    ...says the man who's bus won't even go 55... :D
     
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  13. PSG

    PSG

    do i need new brass ovals? these have been in a year but i never annealed them in the first place. Or will i wreck them by prying them out...
     
  14. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    It will,it will, I'm not finished with it yet,
     
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  15. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    If you're gentle you can get them out and reuse them, you need to sand them flat again though, it's fine to drive with no exhaust it won't be all that noisy, quite noisy but not silly
     
  16. PSG

    PSG

    Hx corrosion on port end is flattened both on same plane now. I also have the flange nuts ready and some sealant for the exhaust etc. Just need to pry out the gaskets now and sort that out then refit all. Here's the pics.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  17. PSG

    PSG

    Right, exhaust back on and hx's too. God damn those top exhaust nuts. true patience testers.

    The butterfly on the choke that broke is wide open again so need to take that off and check the issue, so at present it wont sit and idle.

    Just need to put undertins back on then will go out for a test drive. Maybe today maybe tomorrow.
     
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  18. Heat till cherry red, then dunk in water to re-anneal a copper washer/gasket.
     
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  19. Sorry to jump in but I'm having similar issues with mine, I've checked for air leaks on all the balance and servo pipes, all seem fine now after replacing a couple that looked iffy.
    Have attached a video, reckon I'm going to have to check exhaust ports now too.
    It's not been running long and the hydraulic tappets are still filling up.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2016
  20. On the subject of filing the mating surface - I'm about to re-fit my LH Heat exchanger as its been blowing like a White-House intern - I'm thinking of filing more metal from the mating collar than from the port surface - surely this will mean I can ensure I get it nice and tight?

    Or am I being a plum and risking completely squashing the copper gasket?
     

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