A restoration for Iris

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by JamesLey, Jul 6, 2015.

  1. Engine lid on tonight via sneaky use of a bit of paracord:
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    Number plate and door catch back on too, OMG! Just need to replace the plate screws with black ones at some point:
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    I fitted the cheapy fuel pump I bought a few years back to replace the old dead pump and lo and behold it only bloody started!


    I’ve a better quality pump on the way so I’ll fit that, check it works, then refit the SVDA dizzy and set the timing etc and it shouldn’t be too far off a spin round the yard (brakes first though)!
     
  2. OMG :)

    What will we all do when you’ve finished this!
     
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  3. They’re never finished right?


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  4. Well done James, Thrust is a Must, but Brakes are fairly essential as i found when I took Lottie for a trundle down the drive.
     
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  5. So nice to finely hear her little aircooled engine breathing again! Somewhat asthmatic but better than nothing.
     
  6. My Madmatz set arrived this week. Very happy with these, and should look lovely once in:
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    Fancying a change I’ve moved onto sorting some interior bits. First up transforming it into the International Space Station with some silent coat sound deadening, followed by Dodomat for insulation:
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    I’ve started carpet lining the living area. We’ve gone with anthacite grey, feels very cosy (ignore the rough edges, I’ve not trimmed it down yet!):

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    Fitted my slightly nicer fuel pump from heritage too:
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    I’m having a few issues getting the engine to idle properly. It will quite happily run with a small amount of throttle applied, but when released it fails to idle properly. I’m thinking it may be the idle jet in the carb not working as it should. The carb was one thing I didn’t look at when assembling the engine so I’ve stripped it down and will clean it all out to see if that helps.
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  7. I’ve been researching T5 builds.... they generally start with “fitted sound insulation, foil wrap and carpet” and end with “bought units and installed”

    That takes 5-6 forum posts.

    They have so much less fun!
     
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  8. This is pretty much the same... Just with 74 pages of prep! :p
     
  9. Hi James,
    For the running gear, master cylinder, brake drums, calipers etc, i guess your zinc primer is Electrox and the mastic you use is also the Bilt Hamber 'epoxy mastic' product?
    If it is, then how did you get the epoxy to spray so nicely? And the color, red?
    I have had a go with the rustbuster EM121 using a 2.2mm spray gun and 15% thinners with pretty mixed results
    I'd be interested to know what you used.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  10. Hey. Yeah that’s right. I used BH epoxy mastic through a 2mm primer gun. That was thinned down by about 15-20%. It’s quite thick so needs thinning a fair bit.
    The red on the calipers was just rattle canned on (that stuff isn’t as nice to spray as out of a gun, probably 5 thin coats to avoid runs).

    What mixed results did you have? I’m using a HVLP gun at about 2bar.


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    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019
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  11. Do you mean 2bar not 2psi ;)probably about 28psi
     
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  12. Whatcha talking about?! Definitely wrote 2 bar ;) (secretly edits post).



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  13. Iam using an HVLP (2.2) as well. I found that i had to turn the air up to about 70psi just to get the stuff to come out, then, obviously it just sort of 'splattered' out and with that much air it
    was quite jaffa-peely. Although, i have only sprayed the underneath so no problem really and i intend to Tigerseal and cover it with Raptor when the weather gets warmer!
    When i do my drums etc i think ill just warm it up more then keep adding thinners until it flows at a lower air pressure.

    Here it is after being glass blasted and Electrox'd

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    Example of jaffa-peel

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    And how it ended up

    20181021_174708.jpg
     
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  14. lovely just lovely
     
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  15. Looks great that! Yeah just thin it down a little further. That’s a pretty high pressure. Think the max I’ve ever used is 2.5bar or so. Usually around 2bar for most of my spraying.


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  16. Thanks James, Ill give it a go.
     
  17. Thank you!
     
  18. Painted a few small bits last weekend.

    New master brake cylinder to replace the old one which had a split rubber cup:
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    Front belly pan and propex heater mount while I had the gun out:
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    With the cylinder fitted I bled all the brakes and adjusted the parking brake so we now have working brakes. Having the right tools for the job makes it all so much easier. I bought a one man vacuum bleed kit which came with this little fill bottle that has a little valve to top up the reservoir. No more carefully trying to avoid spilling it.
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    The rest of the week has been spent trying to get my engine to run properly, including cleaning and rebuilding the carb, refitting the old dizzy and ht leads and a lot of arsing about. I’ve now isolated this to an air leak in the flange between inlet manifold and cylinder head. New gaskets on their way to replace this and hopefully we’ll be running properly (big thank you to all those who responded to my other thread on the engine issues).
     
  19. A lovely sunny day today so base and clear coated the bumpers, wheels and track covers in pastel white:
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    Sorted the running issues with the engine too. Turned out to be an air leak on the N/S inlet manifold flange due to a poorly pressed gasket (old right, new left).
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    Fitted a new one and the engine now runs great. Drove the van for the first time around the yard, and reversed it into the workshop. Felt surreal driving it for the first time in a long while! I’ll grab a video tomorrow of it driving.
     
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  20. Gasket problem is no great surprise, I bought 4 gaskets for the heat risers which are of similar construction, 2 were great, 1 badly mispressed and one in a bag saying "achtung enhalt asbest" so 2 to be returned
     
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