It’s far too cold and damp to paint the bumpers and other bits, even with my little Infrared lamp, so I’ve been busying myself with a few other bits. Gave the air filter a few coats of satin black, and reinstalled in the van: Fuel lines installed with the addition of a fuel shutoff valve: Cut and polished the engine lid: And the same treatment for the rear hatch. Warmed the hatch window seal in a bucket of hot water (car thermometer said it was -1 today!) and fitted to the window: New door seal, and rubber block fitted to the striker plate: Hatch on: And door slammed shut to let the seal bed in:
Hi James looking great, is the cutoff valve wired to Ign supply as a safety device or elsewhere as part of an immobilisation system? Grateful for details of supplier
It’s this one off eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petrol-d...iquid-VALTEK/163375163425?hash=item2609eb2821. Fed off the same ignition switched feed from the coil that supplies the reverse lights. I fitted a 2-1 cable splitter under the van, one wire to the reverse lights and one to the solenoid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey mate. Here’s the gas strut for you (part no gs10-22-400-500 with 450N force). Looks like SGS do it: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gs10-22-400-500 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wired up the reversing lights and new fuel shutoff valve last night: However I’m having a few electrical issues. With ignition in first position I’m getting power to the dash lights and coil (can hear the solenoid kicking in). Sticking the gears into reverse flicks on the backup lights as expected. However I’m having an intermittent issue whereby all power to dash lights and coil disappears. This seems to happen when I’m doing nothing, but is exacerbated by using any of the electrical components (tap horn, reversing lights). I don’t have power to fuse 11 and 12 when this happens so my money is on the ignition switch being on its way out. Am I about right or is there some further testing i can do to diagnose? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi James great progress with Iris, I should have a similar photo of Lottie soon. Wiring seems to vary over Bay years but it would appear that the coil/carb solenoid/choke and reverse lights come off the unfused ignition switch supply (15) which also feeds the hazard warning flasher. Potentially a lot of ergs and over time damage to switch contacts. I guess best to isolate services individually to see if issue goes, just in case there is a genuine short in one of the legs. I gather a remote fuse for the reverse lights is normally positioned after the takeoff from the coil supply, so at least some protection for the more vital outputs.
Yes it’s off the bottom leg of fuse 12 down to the coil (fuse 11 and 12 get their supply from ignition switch as you say). I started playing around with fuses to see if I could isolate the issue further but will try again tonight. I fitted an inline fuse between coil and reversing lights too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hello James awesome job ... what blue have you gone with ... I have one in sea blue/pastel but i really like this hue..
Yes it had a new roof about 4 years ago now. It’s spent most of its life propped up in the workshop though! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m having one fitted to mine soon,are you happy with yours?if you can remember what it was like when it was on the busneed to put a makeshift roof over the hole for the drive down there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I’m dead happy with it. Looks the part and is really easy to use. Ours is fitted to a westy tin roof so the bed boards he provided didn’t fit as they’re designed for a hole he’d usually cut and strengthen with angle iron. My mistake really as I didn’t mention it was a westy roof. Just leave the hole and go for a summer open ragtop look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks James ,good to know.It did cross my mind to drive down with the hole left open ,with my luck it will probably pour down Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Each step is a little closer to being on the road! A few bits back from the powder coaters so built up the quarter lights with new seals and powder coated frames: Powder coated Window wiper arms with new hella blades: Painted a few bits. Repainted an engine lid hinge I wasn’t happy with (I’d painted it in the open position so when closed had a bit missing paint) and front wheel caps: Insides of the bumpers and track covers painted (I don’t have enough racks to hang it all from to paint both insides and out): Front grill and petrol flap: Max came down over the last two days to help with sorting the brakes and to try and start the engine. The front brakes bled fine, however the rears wouldn’t even produce fluid. There were no leaks in the line so I disconnected the line from the master cylinder. When pumped no fluid was pushed through so it was off with the cylinder for investigation. I ended up stripping the cylinder and I think I’ve tracked down the culprit: This is the seal between the front and rear pistons in the cylinder so I think the fluid is leaking from the rear piston to the front piston rather than flowing into the rear brake lines. I think I’ll take a look at getting a rebuild kit and repairing this. We attempted to start up the engine tonight! The starter motor turned over fine which is a great sign, however the engine didn’t kick into life. After investigation it would appear the fuel pump has died (assume the diaphragm has dried out and cracked) so I’ll fit my spare pump I bought a while back to see if that helps. In addition the SVDA Dizzy I fitted wasn’t producing a spark so I’ve put the 009 back on for now. The SVDA dizzy has a pertronix unit fitted to it so I wonder if it’s duff?
So it would seem that master cylinder rebuild kits aren't available. I've ordered a new ATE master cylinder from heritage instead (save's a bit of time too!)