I used a small pry bar on the seals the hooked end fits under the seal and the other end fits on the hub. Inner bearing comes out when big circlip taken out and ring of corrosion on hub carrier cleaned off. Tap on end of outer bearing inner sleeve to move it. Tap on inner bearing hard missing lip in hub carrier from inside going out. Clean everything. Grit will be fatal. PACK THE BEARINGS FULL OF LITHIUM GREASE. OR ELSE THE BEARING WILL START TO MELT. I failed to put enough grease in the outer roller bearing and it died in 80 miles. Replacing bearings the inner is easy. Outer bearings - the VWH ones are asymmetrical with one side having a more rounded edge. That side goes in to the carrier first. Line it up by pushing the stub axle through part way from behind and use the 46mm socket as a tool to hit it square. Make sure it goes in square and stop when its flush in the carrier. GSF bearings are symmetrical and slightly bigger. I packed mine with grease and then put it in the freezer and then still had to hit it very very hard. I am writing a howto on this. I have done three myself and advised @daisey1973 at Techenders while standing around doing a Boris impersonation , holding a can of drink in my hand as I had a bad back.
Not been at it long but old ones are out and new inner is in. Just cleaning up me shaft and the outer will be in soon. The bstard inner seal succumbed to the hammer and chisel
Next question. How do I torque up the hub nut without a torque wrench that goes upto a bazillion ft lbs?
Stand on the breaker bar. On the end is right for me, I suggest you shuffle along towards the socket a bit. No jumping. Now see if you can get the splitpin through one of the 2 holes. If not, stand nearer the end until you can.
If you happened to weight 256lbs, and stood 1ft up the bar that would be right. Not suggesting you do.
18" so as I'm a lightweight I have to stand on the end. See post up there.^ If one weighed 18st, one would stand 1 ft out from the socket. Foot/pounds innit.
