Refitted engine and just turns over

Had a spare morning at last and refitted engine, its a 1600cc type 1. it spins over but wont fire, only check I did was had fuel from pump which seemed ok. Havent checked anything else as ran out of time. Will do in next few days.
First time I played with engine but can you verify the obvious;
fuel pump "in on top out" on bottom;
reconnected coil pos and neg, alternator, oil light, battery

Didn't seem to smell of petrol, but didn't drain carbs just removed and refitted.
Will check spark after advice on here.
Only really replaced broken rings, fitted new dizzy cap and rotor arm, cleaned and replaced plugs and set valve clearances hopefully not one of these !

 

Air, fuel, spark, and compression...

So:

Air and compression go hand in hand - Did you reset the valve/tappet gaps when you put the engine back together?

Spark is easy... crank the engine with the king lead removed but near a bare metal area, look for a strong blue spark... yellow spark means the coil needs replacing.

Fuel - with the air-filter off the carb, hold the choke open and pump the throttle... listen for fuel squirting out of the accel jet

 

Reset tappets hopefully ok. lol
will try and remove air filters and listen and spark will do that next as soon as I get assistance.

 

Ignition leads in the right places and basic ignition timing comes in once you get a spark with fuel and air, and having a friend to turn the ignition key unless you wire a jump lead from the spade on the starter motor to be able to tap it on the battery +.

 

^What he said - double check HT leads are correct orientation. The carbs will fill and deliver fuel in a few seconds even if they and pipes were empty.
Unless
You also fitted an electric fuel pump on the firewall above the level of the fuel. That might not work if the tank's a bit empty. Saw one like this today that made me think of this.

 

will double check leads fink they are

 

No you can't rely on that. They might be 90 degs anti-clockwise. Turn to timing mark at tdc and have a look. Rotor should be pointing at where your diagram shows 1 or where it shows 2. If not it's pointing at no.3 (not on diagram, in bus) so either turn engine until timing mark back at top for no.1 or connect to 3 first and take it from there.

 

http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/the3crispies/media/20141230_132817_zpsddf37db4.jpg.html took this earlier Im hoping its as you said Zed, no 1 front right,.

 

Have you got it 180 degrees out? I.e at top dead centre but not on the firing stroke?

 

Isn't that where you had it anyway?

 

Yeah, didn't touch or move dizzy just checking rotor was where it supposed to be. When get chance will check spark and go from there.
Remade off coil connections just in case and noticed larger cable (black) was earth and smaller (green) was + pos. Just to make sure they were correct did continuity between black and engine case.
As Paul said couldn't hear fuel squirting when had one of air filters off (have no choke fitted)but had fuel in pipes and from pump. Couldn't smell petrol in carb either.

 

Blacks positve on the Coil, green negative

 

That's what I thought and as per van wiring diagram as black is 2.5mm, why is there a reading between black and engine case only have red and black from coil to dizzy for electronic ign

 

Sometimes the fuel pump fails to prime... I've had this a few times... pull off the feed hose from the fuel pump and allow some fuel to run out (positive pressure from the tank) then pull the hose off the top of the carb and pop it in a coke bottle and crank the engine to check that the pump is primed and pumping fuel..

You can also pull the pump off and manually pump the lever in the base of the pump to prime it!!

And wiring is as per @davidoft

 

So to confuse things, the black from the loom goes to the +ve on the coil and the red from the dizzy goes to the same place, the black from the dizzy goes -ve on the coil

 

Get it wrong and your ignition module will be toast which would explain the lack of firing...

 

Correct except green is with black from dizzy. If the loom wiring was reversed what damage could this cause

 

doh

 

The green from the dizzy should go to the condenser , but if you have electronic ignition you shouldn't have a green, got a picture?

If you reverse the cool wiring it won't make much odds but if you reverse the electronic ignition wiring it can fry the unit