Been away for a week so not done much until last night. Finished off the leisure 12v first fix, made a mounting for the 12 v fuse box and a master switch and painted it with the left over crackle finish I had for the dash. Also fitted and finished off the wiring for the 240v consumer unit, still have to put in the waterproof socket in the engine bay and the main connector. I used a flexible armoured cable for all the runs – but when I came to connect the wires up there were two blacks and 1 earth – so I went back to tell the electrical company that the wires were wrong and there should be a yellow – brown and blue – only to be told that the 2 blacks have numbers on them – 1 and 2 – errr---- with me feeling a bit stupid I went back – and under electron microscope I found that indeed the dam things have numbers on them. Got the front bumper flatted down, compounded off and fitted – but not sure as the bolts look out of place – it is as original – but I may get the back centre rubber to finish it off. Got a new phone and tried the panorama function on it Put in the 3mm rubber sound proofing to the rear and cab doors as well.
Hi Brendon - not to hard - mine is a Danbury and I have kept the old ones as templates (only the back) - if you are interested I will do a drawing for you, please let me know and I will do a more detailed instructions. but here are a few pics - the middle one is quite easy - but the back ones are a bit harder to make.
Drawings would be brilliant Marc cheers. Mines also a Danbury, but had absolutely nothing in side when I bought it. I'm loving the speed yours is coming along, mines 2 years in and still no sign of paint.
Rubber rubber rubber & Glue – that was my night. I must say that doing the finishing bits and bobs is great – but it does consume a huge amount of time. Fitted the rubber mats to the wheel arches and the sides to the seats. Also took the old rear bumper retaining arms off the old bumper and cleaned and sprayed them up ready for fitting over the week end.
Did not too much this week end – but did come across a problem when putting on the new rear bumper. So I got my tap out and cleaned out the 2 threads that are in each side the chassis ready for bolting up the bumper supports. When I did the welding at the back, I remember that the bumper irons are held in place by 2 (on each side) captive nuts in the chassis. – These were fine, so I carried on welding the rear down pillars that has a hole in the bottom. Only now to find that the hole in the bottom is where I should have welded a nut in – and the other captive nut is redundant, the one nr the engine mount that I thought was the one that the iron bolts into. So I now have to cut out at the side and slide a nut in or drill out the hole bigger to put in a nut and weld it in!!!!! After that debacle I cleaned up the old rubber mats that are in a good state and fitted them.
Drilling a bigger hole and welding it in will be easier and I can't see why you shouldn't go this route
Finished off making the front cards out of a pre finished black hardboard that has a plastic grain finish to it – must say, easy to cut and fit and looks good – got it for lining the boot of one of my cars Took off from the old card the sticker that tells you the water pressure of the bottle – and applied it to the new on – having said that who is bothered what pressure the windscreen washer bottle pumps the water at! Next was to take off the rear bumper – make the two holes bigger and weld in nuts – after that pumped in a load of wax oil – and by that time it was 10.30 –
Now as im new to these things and never driven a VW T2 - I assumed that the water got pumped to the windscreen via a pump in the column (just like a normal car dating from 50s onwards– or as I now am presuming – I have to use a tyre pump to put pressure in the bottle!!!! – I did notice that there is a valve on a small section of pipe – but assumed that someone put that there years ago to stop water leaking out – or something like that. If it is the case I have to pump air into the bottle – that a bit retro!! Can anyone help?
The pressure bottle's great, it's silent. There's no soundproof engine compartment to hide the whirring pump in and behind the kick panels it sounds just wrong. As long as the pipe from the bottle to the switch isn't split (cut the ends off and remake if it is) and the inflating valve doesn't need replacing (replace it for pennies), you're good to go. Max pressure is written on the bottle. You must have some air in it to compress, but the design ensures this so fill it up. Mine doesn't loose pressure and 6 months between pump ups. You can use a compressor but be careful.
Put the rear bumper on – and looks ok but the gaps are not perfectly even at the top!!! Christ – I never imagined that I would have to dry fit the bumper pre paint to get the gaps right, the bumper is new one and I don’t know if it’s the bumper or the bodywork – any how it will have to do – so I have a 8mm gap between the body and the bumper on the passenger side and a 2 mm gap on the driver’s side – too late to bend it or mess around re doing the locating bolts – After getting frustrated with the bumper I fitted the door cards – first I stuck some plastic sheeting to the metal of the door and then fitted the cards , and I was very pleased with how they came out, can’t decide if I should get new chrome door release back plates or leave em black, seats in tonight!!
Looking nice can't wait to see it finished,nice colour interior .I'm a long way of anything like yours some nice wood work its the one thing I hate is wood I cant work with wood. Again it's going to be great looking van
