What did you search for with that clamp? Is it like T clamp or something? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I was 99.9% of the way to replying about it and thought no grow up.. but as you're the same mentality as me... "butt clamp"..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
nice work .. @JamesLey As your the arch king .... and @davidoft i have a pair of arch cuts from the US ive started to prep them by removing spare metal , and ive offered them up to my bus.. to get the out rigger in situ .. but... they seem to be 4-5mm shorter than the opening, now im assuming... the A and B posts have not moved as there is a big chassis keeping things in place .. how will i sort this out.. not the best pic.. but at least it looks busy ... a bit short .. only at one end... ideally.. the A post ,would come back to meet the arch...?
Cheers mate. It's as good a fit as I could make it! There is a bit of flex in the arch so you'll probably find that you can coax it into position. With ours I got it lined up nicely with the B pillar and the bottom of the door then tacked it to the b pillar. I then got a trolley jack under the step and lifted the front up into position then clamped it to the a pillar and tacked it there. I used a scissor jack between the chassis leg and the back of the step to bring the curved bit of the arch into alignment with the door and tacked it to the wheel arch. Then double checked the gaps and welded away. I'd suggest getting the door on to see how it's fitting. your A pillar is unlikely to have shifted its more likely that the arch just needs a bit of encouragement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cool.. I wondered what you did to yours, I was thinking, the door needs to be in as a reference These arches are very strong and heavy, so it will prove interesting...
You probably need to stretch the arch, it's like a bit of folded paper when you let go it shrinks a little, I use a bottle jack off the hub to lift the middle of the arch a trolley jack at the front to lift it there, a hydraulic ram on arch at the curve braced off the front top corner of the door frame,sort of 45degrees, but first I get the rear of the arch perfect on door gap and weld it in. You really need the door in to use as your guide for arch position
And take your time. Took me 10 hours to do ours (I'm probably quite slow)! I somehow lost 3 hours faffing with the door gaps.
Nope, even the vw bodywork Manual says manipulation through hydraulic rams will be necessary to ensure perfect Lines
The N/S front wheel tub needed a fair bit of work but it was very salvageable. First up I made a new seat mount as the old one was toast: Then the Schofield’s seat belt mount repair went in: A fair bit of the tub needed cutting out to repair it properly: Then spend hours making up a well fitting repair complete with pressings: And all welded up and painted. Good as new!
A great bit of fabricating.. Was your van under sealed... I ask as mine has a thick coat , and most of it is good on the flat bits... Ie ..the tubs.. But crusty in the water traps...
Cheers mate. Yeah it had some sort of underseal on it. Most of the rot on this tub looks to be from water getting under the seat mount combined with naff repairs in the past. I'll be giving the underside a good coat of underbody wax when it's all done (Dynax UB). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Aiming to finish the welding this year. Hoping to get it on the road for summer but I've no idea how long paint and rebuild will take! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
