What is the best way to boost oil cooling?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Bertiebot, Jul 9, 2012.

  1. Hi all
    I am considering how I can increase the oil cooling capacity of my type 4 engine. It is a an 1800 and has all tin and seals in place bar one side of the under engine tin (oil filter side). It will do 60mph all day with the oil temp at maybe 110oC. If I run at 65 to 70 it slowly gets nearer 120oC which feels like a bad idea so I stick to 60 on runs. She will do 80mph pretty happily from a power perspective but again overheating would be an issue even faster.

    Am I best fitting an additional external oil cooler? Any recommendations as to which one?
    Porsche fan kits look fantastic but look like loads of Dosh. My bus put out about 80 ps when it was set up on a dyno recently so it's not super powerful but it would be nice to use what it has got a bit more.

    Cheers

    Phil
     
  2. my m8 positioned his oil cooler at the bottom of the draugh well on the opps side of the battery..
    if you know what i mean.. the air being forced thru the vents at 60/70 mph must be enough to cool as he has a 1.9 turbo in his..
     
  3. I'm in the process of fitting a 13 row modal cooler under the van with a scoop forcing the air through it.
    Just fitted the cooler and scoop just need to plumb it in over the weekend.
    I've got a 2.0 Type 4 engine in a split screen.
     
  4. don't forget that you'll also need to install a thermo valve, so the oil only gets cooled once it reaches 90°c
     
  5. I got mocal one fitted in the sandwich plate, inline oil temp sender adaptor so I can put it under the van away from the engine.
     
  6. Does anyone do kits of the right bits for a bus? I remember it being a squeeze getting the current sandwich plate in with a bit of trial and error finding out which port to use. I have both the temp and pressure senders in the sandwich plae currently.
     
  7. But the sound of it, the kits the usuall suspects use are pants. Don't go there.
    I got mine from Merlin motorsports, based at castle coombe circuit. Found them really good.
    As for the sandwich plate I fitted one for the oil temp gauge but the fittings are a lot smaller than the mocal one I bought.
    That's my concern when I plumb it in will it all fit in there.
     
  8. Mocal look like decent gear. I will give Merlin a call and see what they recommend. The gauge senders are 1/8th NPT. The Mocal hoses look a fair bit bigger. Need to sort the thermostat too.
     
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  11. Novak are made by Think Automotove in this country, you can buy direct, I only went to Merlin as they had all the bits I needed.
    I got 1/2 inch fittings, the temp sender you can get a step up ring thing think mine was 3/8 > 1/2????.
    Stat built into the sndwich plate, as Think Automotive told me it's te same stat as the external ones but just built into the plate. It works out cheaper.

    But as others said is it just masking something.
    Temp wise, if my was reading correct it hits 140°, it's ran fine like it for years as it's in a split screen I can't get the tin ware to fit all around, hardly any room to fit rubbers.
    I went for one to help to cool it down, I hope! And as Tescos says every little helps!
     
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  13. they don`t call them worry gauges for nothing . I`m not sure what max temp shoud be but we had a new MGF years ago and the oil temp stayed @ 120 coolant 90 . My 1700 type 4 never goes above 105 -110 and sits @ 65mph on motorway 3.6 rpm and 100 deg temp ....

    there are a lot of variables
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    ...one big variable is which way the wind is blowing... 20mph head or tail wind makes a LOT of difference.
     
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  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    As above - I don't remember seeing a T4 engine with mechanical problems other than head probs due to overheating. Receding valve seats are common. Dropped valves occaisional. Almost every time the apparent culpret has been a split somewhere in the servo vacuum circuit. If I had a servo, I'd lavish all the care and love I could on the servo vacuum pipe, fittings and the servo itself.
     
  17. Given that temp gauges are only approximate, and there'll be variations according to where you measure the temp and the [glow=red,2,300][glow=red,2,300]FACT[/glow][/glow] that VW never gave any figures...your oil temps seem fine to me.

    I'd forget about faffing with another cooler. If you can run at 110* at 60 in a heavy bus, that sounds ok to me. Oil's only reached it's operating temp at 100*.

    I'd would
    avoid cruising at 80 - 70s busses really weren't designed to do this. On a lesser 1600, 70's pushing it, heat-wise.

    If there are no other obvious engine probs, solve the problem once & for all by getting rid of the temp gauge, then stop worrying... :)
     
  18. Thanks all

    I have a few things to play with now.

    Does my gauge read 100oC in boiling water. Check the servo hoses etc.

    Thing is, my bus runs nicely. Timing and fuelling are spot on thanks to Autotech in Ripleys's dyne. I gets 22 to 23 mpg and she is great fun to drive. I do like farting about "improving" stuff so I have a few routes to follow.

    I will probably fit a remote cooler in addition to the stock one (plus thermostat) as I don't really want to run at 80 mph but it would be nice to cruise slightly faster than HGVs so I am not caught up in the "I'm 0.5mph faster than you so I'm going to overtake" thing..

    Cheers

    Phil
     

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