I know mine was full of rust and I look back at when I saw it and bought it. it was full of rust and bog but the seller said no rust in it. I did not know that if you cannot see rust it is not there. A kombi expert or even myself now and you guys can tell if it has been full restored or full of rust. I can tell now by looking online at other adds kombis being advertised as full restored, only cheaply sprayed and filled with bog. they still sell for $30K to $60K and to be honest some are not in any better condition then mine was when I bought it.
Then there's the engine, the gearbox, the running gear, the seals and everything else to put it back together, the upholstery and interior, the electrics, the tyres... IME once the shell/doors are done and painted, you're about half way.
When I am up to that stage, I will be happy that the hard work is done as I fell more confident about reassembling the car as I know how to put it back and in my opinion I find it easier even though it will take the same amount of time as what it took to get it to a rolling shell.
The cost too - last time I did it, almost 10 years ago, it cost approx £1,000 in seals and light lenses etc to reassemble the actual van. Looks like you need headliner etc and we don't know what state your interior/seats/brakes etc are in. One thing I can guarantee is when you hold up the bits you removed next to your newly painted shiny van you will not want to put them back - new ones.
I'm not trying to be an arse Dean, but your positivism might bite your arse. Gearbox rebuild $2,000+. Engine rebuild $8,000, seals etc $2,000+, Does it have a poptop? What condition is that and it's canvas in? And on and on...
Dorset centre for Rural Skills. It looks like the pandemic forced them to close though. A real shame as Rob who ran the courses was brilliant. I bought my other half a glass blowing course with them a few years back too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I found this video on youtube. It shows you can pop off a ball joint with a ball joint puller and a welding mole grips. No cutting, no heating and no bashing. (what I know you should never do) Do you guys think this is possible? Im going to refurbish my front beam and better off replacing the ball joints. By the way I am only disassembling the mechanics of it and will resemble it once I get it to a rolling shell in 10 years time. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1935237...ld6waoVueg%3D%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBMkL7dmcFf
Why not just buy reconditioned trailing arms (for example, CoolAir VW supply them here) as it will save you all of the hassle of removing and repressing them
I have all the new ball joints and I know my trading arms are good so there is no point buying recondition ones. The manuals recommends getting them pressed but if it is that easy like what that guy shows it should be easier for me with the whole trailing arm out. That is if I can pop them off his way.
Having done them myself it is a pain & we needed a 25 ton press to remove the old ones successfully, we tried various methods and struggled until we pressed them out. Hence the suggestion..
1) Why are you replacing the ball joints? If it's just because you can, don't bother. 2) Do you have the ball joint clamp kit? Expensive. Not worth the investment to do this once, just remove the arms and find someone with a 20T press to press the old out and new in.
If they need replacing (check as the old ones may still be good) I'd say just find someone with a press. It'll save you lying on your back and you'll need to take the arms off anyway to press the new ones in. I got my baja ball joints done by my mate Simon at NOSVW (those are the joints from my bug in the video): edit: @Zed beat me to it!
Also worth mentioning the guy in the video doesn't really know what he's doing specifically for a T2. For example he was baffled by the eccentric camber nuts, he didn't know they are a separate part. Sure he's a mechanic, he worked it out as one does, but the fact he makes a video like he's experienced is odd. I wonder at which point he worked out the significance of the cut-outs when reassembling. I'm guessing he put them in wrong as he doesn't show it.
my concern was the boot had torn and dirt inside will destroy them. I should just change the boot then. Not worth getting the press. I find in near impossible to pull it out with a puller like in the video.
I have read the VW books and they all say to take it shop to do. Most things you can do at home but not this. That video looks to be fabricated as impossible to remove it like how he did it.
Hi Nick, If you think the old ones are suspect and you've got new ones, just take your bits to somewhere like Pedders and get them to swap them over.