WANTED VW 2.4D Engine for T4

Bit of a long shot but just in case anyone has a lead on one or knows which other manufacturers carry the same engine for a cheap swap e.g. Volvo, Audi etc.

 

Would an LT work?

 

What’s wrong with your engine ?

 

It's a van I may buy. I reckon the woodruff key on the crank has shat itself causing the timing pulley to spin relatively freely - enough to cause damage. I expect more damage up top as a result.

 

Not very common on the 2.4s what makes you suspect that’s the problem

 

Description from the seller. He bought it 4 weeks ago where previous owner had changed the belt etc. I've learned that if the pulley bolt isn't tightened correctly (RFT) it can back out and that then wonders about and eventually chews the key which cascades.

Tbh I'm hopeful it's salvageable but being realistic. Ideally I can source another motor, change it at location and drive her back. Otherwise I'm looking at a hefty recovery bill.

 

Bus arrived last night. Looking more into these engines I'm not sure they have a woodruff key. Looks to be more of a 'cone' like interference fit for the pullys etc. I reckon instead they changed one side of the belts and not the other and basically lunched the head as a minimum.

Best go try to find a T4 forum now! Thank God my T2 is so much more simple.

 

https://just-t4s.co.uk/

 

Thanks Bud

 

the other belt only runs the pump, it may just have broken and maybe replaced incorrectly, no engine damage, only the cam are cone, the crank is keyed, what symptoms have you got ?

 

I turn the crank pulley with a 27 and it barely turns the cam belt when viewed up top. Yes I'm also back to thinking crank is keyed and my original hypothesis that the 27 bolt wasn't done tight enough and caused the pulley to move enough that it knackered the key and the pulley. Eventually the key sheared. What do you reckon? Anymore investigation I could do? I guess whip the rocker cover off and see if the cam has snapped/wedged into head?

 

the crank pulley has a pretty substantial key way I think , but that bolt has gotta be stooooopiiiidddd tight and then another half turn, I would imagine lots of people don’t turn the full half as it feels like it’s about to snap , could be the bottom pulley but unlikely, they could have not tightened something else , too pulley or tensioner perhaps, sounds like pull the rocker cover for a shufty , pop up pictures , I’m intrigued. I did have one that had split the bottom cam pulley in half , still ran no symptoms, I just happened to be doing the cam belt change and spotted it

 

Cheers Ill check all those bits too but the cam belt is still tight and under tension at this point so it's like the bottom pulley just isn't engaging and the crank. I'll also get the cam bolt off and remove the pulley to see what state the key is in - as soon as I figure out how to! I reckon I'm gunna need an ebay special tool for this job.

I'll get some pics up. Still hopeful the crank is ok and it's just a head job at this point because if it's chattered the key in the keyway, well, the crank can be saved by creating a new keyway 180 degrees but it's an engine rebuild job to do it...

 

They should also have a diamond washer to help the grip and torque. Oh, and the bolt is a stretch bolt too. Hmm, not looking good is it?

 

Yup, 1 use. Bolt

 

Did my 2.4 cambelt a few months back on the motorhome. That bottom bolt was super tight to do up. I was concerned it was going to break even with the new bolt!

 

What did you use to lock it all up to do up and undo?

 

bar in the flywheel, need an assistant

 

Ive heard of that one and told not to do it

Also the breaker bar and socket on the floor, remove the pump relay and flick her over. The torque of the starter whips it off.

 

good luck getting that bolt of with the starter, you have to know how to hold a flywheel properly, never damaged one and ive done hundreds