Up and over garage doors - and the van?

You could also let a bit of the air out the tyres to get it in/out ok if 1/2 a year but not every week.

@Calibay has an up and over and gets his in fine but its a massive garage with lots of height.

Got a rightmove link to the new place, I guess it's a bungalow

 

Why not just nip round and take a measurement?

 

^^^ This is what my dad did back in the day when he bought a Viking. 2 x one foot wide groves in floor.

 

Mines up n over. I was lucky. The opening that the door frame is in had a 20mm gap above hidden under a fillet piece. So I unscrewd the frame with door insitu and jacked it up 20mm. Then fitted draught proofing brushed to the door bottom to close the gap.

 

we also ended up fitting a roller door.

 

I couldn't have even got a car in mine so it got skipped.
Your van is very tall @rickyrooo1 and your buggerlow appears to be very small.

 

When I start looking at new houses, I am going to take a tape measure with me. I know my van is lower than 2m 10cm, but will have to measure it more accurately. The problem with most garages is that they aren't really designed with camper vans in mind. If necessary, then digging the floor will have to be the solution for me.

 

the garage is seperate and therefore the size of the bungalow is not relevant, moons van is as tall (if not taller) than mine and his fits in a normal garage (with a roller door conversion)

 

I had to raise my car port 4" when I got my first van. That was after "someone" reversed me into it cracking the Westy roofrack.
I have to buy a house soon and frankly I'm dreading it. I don't even know where to buy one as I'm not going to live in it anyway for the forseeable.

 

Our stock height van with late Devon roof just gets into a standard height up and over garage:

 

Depends what we're calling standard. Old standard garage doors are 1980mm high and the frame is normally 63-70mm, so max height of 2050mm. So if you put a new frame behind the existing brickwork......your bus still wouldn't fit

If you get lucky it could be a 2134mm high plus frame, which gives you a fighting chance of doing something.

 

After you've ate that burger can you get me a price again please

 

This was going to be one of my questions. I'm in the process of empting my garage of years of junk so haven't tried to get it in yet. The bus is stock height tin top, but will be lowering it at some point. I've driven up to the door and it looks like it's going to be very very close. How much air do I need to let out? I know that's a hard one to answer! But I assume you shouldn't let all the air out? Is it bad to do it too often? It was going to be a few months before I lowered it but maybe I need to do it sooner rather than later if I shouldn't let the air out regularly. But it'll probably still be a few weeks at least.

Edit: However the good thing is the ceiling is so high inside I'll be able to stand on the bus roof if I so wanted.

 

If you let 1/4 to 1/2 out should be ok, try and pump it up again once inside.

 

Thank you. And most importantly remember to let the air out again before I drive it out! I think I'll have to leave the pump on the seat to remind me.

 

nice shot, shows me what i'm trying to explain - the lintel doesn't need to be that thick as it's hardly a massive load bearing a nice bit of 4x2 and all is good lol

 

same here, I have a Devon roof and stock height, and just fits

 

westy is higher than devon i'd guess?

 

i knew i shouldn't have fitted new shocks..........

 

I can't imagine there's much in it - the westy roof looks like it sticks up more than it actually does, and the devon roof has those mushroom vents on it. I have problems because the Dormobile roof sticks up higher. My van won't go in Malc's garage whereas Rhubarb just squeaked in. Worst is the Super Viking because that is the tallest (except for high tops, that is).