Two seater, targa topped bus restoration (914)

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by mcswiggs, Feb 18, 2018.

  1. i would be interested in the cam if you not gonna use it.
    77 Westy likes this.
  2. @nobody - I’ll have to let you know about the cam - I want to keep the gear and I’m not sure when I’ll get a machine shop lined up to do all the work.

    I have to agree, having got this far I wouldn’t be happy with the old followers which are either flat or concave, so a new cam is needed too.
    Spent the afternoon stripping the crank and measuring.

    I’m not happy with the one scuffed piston and peaned oil ring so a bore and new pistons is the way forward. Will ask some more specifics on the best way to source some when I’ve got my head around the CR.

    The bores on the case are all within tolerance, which is good. The crank is looking a bit worn - the centre main is typical;
    Although none of the journals are scored, the centre one is blue-streaked suggesting that it’s been getting hot.
    I think I’m in for a crank grind at 0.25mm.
    The rods look ok but I might as well get some small end bearings pressed in too.
    Can anyone recommend a good machine shop ideally in SW London?
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2018
    Aang likes this.
  3. Ideally you need to measure with micrometers. Digital calipers have a tolerance of +\- 0.05 ..
    Do you have a pic of the followers .have you thought about getting them reground?
    Bhubesi likes this.
  4. I have new (one that will fit any aftermarket cam, I have bolts too) and used aluminum cam wheels if you want and leave the on the cam, also I would take the followers if you wont use them.
  5. I did get a reasonably priced micrometer set a certain internet auction site - some old Sheffield made Shardlow ones with swappable anvils to measure 2-6" with standards and adjusting spanner too.

    Do let us know how much the machining quotes are for cam gear and small end bushes - I don't have much feel for expected prices - but need both jobs too.
    mcswiggs likes this.
  6. Had a brief chat with Jim at Stateside yesterday about cam grinding; he said they’d stopped doing it years ago because the surface hardness of the original can’t be replicated. I’m tempted just to bang in a new one and cam gear and just get the crank ground with an exchange set of rods.
    77 Westy likes this.
  7. I’m slowly putting my list together on parts I need to source...Jesus rear euro lenses ain’t cheap .shotblasted the spare set of engine tin ready for powdercoat so I can swop it out ...
    mcswiggs likes this.
  8. I know what you mean about the lenses - I’ve been putting off thinking about it too much. Do you think the headlights are the same as a Golf or some other germanware?

    I also need a new silencer which for the 2l is more expensive than a 911’s at getting on for £500. (I might see if I can weld up the old one so at least I can get the engine started). And I need a new windscreen which is heading for the same sort of money. Eek...
    Last edited: May 5, 2018
  9. I’m on the case with headlights . Hopefully a cheap fix least you have a silencer and exhaust ....I will see what the lenses are like when they turn up’s going to be a money pit
    mcswiggs likes this.
  10. Any idea what this is ????

    Coco likes this.
  11. No, but I want one!
    I think you can rest assured that it's not from a ‘teen...
  12. That’s what I thought but it came with it ....
  13. Not much progress with the 914 this week but I got round to reassembling the cab door for the van and popping it on. I say ‘popping’, it’s actually a bugger of a job and has taken most of the weekend already... (gaps not fettled yet)
    Coco, nicktuft and Murtle like this.
  14. Struggling to find headlights ,and rear discs ....good luck finding a screen ....
    mcswiggs likes this.
  15. Bum. Rose Passion in France seem pretty good - I think I can get a screen for the usual half-a-grand king’s ransom. Looks like they have rear discs;
  16. Yes seen those also a company called mittlemotor
  17. Right, time for a little update.
    Feels like I’ve turned a corner because I’ve stopped taking things apart and started putting them back together. Even running out of bits to scrub clean.
    The crank has been to Stateside and reground at 0.25mm. Con rods have been exchanged too (and according to the kitchen scales all within 1 gram of each - proper job!) And all bolted together with assembly lube. The flywheel has been refaced too.
    Took me four attempts to get the cam drive gear on (next time I’ll follow Tom Wilson’s advice (with the crank in the freezer for good measure) and cook the gear in vegetable oil at full heat rather than Jake Raby’s who has some nonsense about heating to 80 degrees C which aint never gonna work).
    Decided to go for a stock replacement cam, new 96mm barrels with KB pistons. Just waiting for it all to turn up so I can crack on with the short block.
    paradox, 77 Westy, Razzyh and 8 others like this.
  18. It’s looking good. I heat the gears on an induction hob (when my wife isn’t looking), when they begin to smoke they’re hot enough - certainly more than 80C. KB hypereutectic pistons are nice, I’m using them with Hastings rings, don’t forget to measure the ring gap. The top ring gap may need to be increased for an air-cooled engine as it runs hot and expands a lot.
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  19. Hah - I tried that even with the wife looking but the induction hob refused to recognise that there was something there and wouldn’t heat.

    Meanwhile all the parts have turned up for the short block rebuild but I’m putting it off until I’ve got a straight run at it for a day without interruption. So, in the meantime I’ve cleaned up the fan shroud and started on the alternator;

    81CE5FD4-366E-4EE4-8BF4-8427ADB9DACF.jpeg 8407D73A-C7B5-455A-AA7D-7740546406B6.jpeg
  20. B0B131FC-D555-4E5B-809B-ADEB8E01136B.jpeg Not too much progress lately - been on hols (took the van on a fault free and fabulous trip to Provence and back but that’s another story.)
    Whilst the wife was out I took the opportunity to use the cooker and kitchen ware again to test the thermostat.
    My first attempt was to pop it into a cup of hot water but nothing moved, nadda! I despondently reread Ratwell and thought I’d try his steaming method and it opened up perfectly! Blessed be the fruit.

    So, when the thermostat has 90c stamped on it it really does mean it ain’t going to move until it gets that hot.
    Meanwhile- in prepping for the great reassembly, what’s the sealer of choice for the main case bolts, Cupril?

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