It's looking like I'm going to be completing a top end rebuild (barrels, pistons, and heads etc.). Looking for recommendations for videos/websites to watch/read to understand the process, what to look out for, gotcha's etc.
What capacity engine do you have and what capacity do you want? For engine rebuild information 'How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine' by Tom Wilson is very good. https://blackwells.co.uk/bookshop/p...Air-Cooled-Engine-by-Tom-Wilson/9780895862259
It's looking like it's an 1800 currently. It's my understanding that it's fairly easy to change this into a 2000 and if it's as easy as I'm led to believe, I think it would be a missed opportunity not to go down the 2lt route.
66mm stroke crank then? 1911cc is easy with 96mm B&Ps, 2.0l (1971cc) would need a 71mm crank and rods and 94mm B&Ps or 2056cc with 96mm B&Ps. No machining required for any of those. And your existing 1800 heads would fit.
Ade is doing a 1911cc conversion using a big bore kit. https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/deck-height-and-compression-ratio-numbers.99372/
The engine was refurbished by Elite Engines in Basildon a few years ago (organised before I bought the van). I must confess that I'm sat on the fence with what to do with this. Rebuild top end with an unknown bottom end or get a replacement engine from VW Engines.
So both heads are questionable (both have damage to the valve guides) and at least one barrel has damage. Thinking of these heads - Cylinder Head 1800-2000cc 39.3x33mm Valves no EGR Hole Complete: 021101062AX | Heritage Parts Centre UK and these pistons/barrels - Barrel & Piston Kit 1911cc 96mm x 66mm for 1700-1800cc Type 4: AC198970 | Heritage Parts Centre UK Any recommendations/alternatives that are worth considering before I place an order? Only thing that I am slightly concerned about is the lack of shims/spacers as no one seems to have any. If they are the correct size, can I reuse the ones from the current block or are they a use once item?
Thanks Steve. There is only one in place (not sure of the thickness) per barrel. You can guarantee that what's in place will be just a smidge to thin
AMC heads, small valves but they'll work okay, AA B&P are usually okay but you must check the piston ring end gaps, even if you're told they are ready to fit. You might not need shims but if you do there is no problem getting them and you could use the old ones. Have a look at the deck height and compression ratio thread. Hit the button, we'll help you build it.
Challenge with replacement heads is a total lack of choice. Stateside Tuning (Moreton in the Marsh) do their own but they have just the last two and are waiting on new blocks to machine down. With the B&P - again, what are the alternatives? When you say '...we'll help you build it...' - in the virtual sense I take it
A quick fart about with an engine calculator shows it's going to have quite high compression with flat tops and a decently tight deck.
Order placed for two new heads and the 1910 upgrade along with hew oil cooler, flywheel and clutch. Just need to find where I can order online the person to come and build it all. Going to do the painting of the tinware and cooling shroud this week.
No its not - its very simple and genuinely not the hard bit (unless you make it hard!) Unless you are very confident your bottom end is in great shape its got to be worth at least a check. If you ask on here (and then actually listen to the answers ) you'll be fine.
