Not sure what it has to do with your end float anyway... probably nothing, just Mr Westy being inquisitive.
Depends on what/if you got it wrong, Only you know what you did. I reckon I could bend 0.1mm easily just by push/pulling on the edge. If you can get this measured while push/pulling on the pulley you might get a more accurate reading.
I was just curious what you did with the cam bearing, nothing to do with the crank thrust. That might just be a wobbly bearing in a wobbly type 1 crankcase, or maybe you didn't set it up correctly. Make sure the bearing isn't moving in the case and if it isn't shim it to spec.
I never did it. Some dude that builds engines did. It was fine when I got it back, but something has gone wrong somewhere, and I’m trying to find out what…Yes. Sorry. I got the case and crank back but had to fit the new cam and followers, everything was torqued to spec, etc…
The clearances in the engine allow for about 2.5mm .. But by that stage you are going to be pouring oil out of the crank seal .. Basically it should stay constant as built and not suddenly change or increase rapidly. Go and see if the end float has a "step" in it where it needs more force to move the full distance, and there is another value you get if you use less force but you get a consistent reading.. Smaller value is crank sliding in bearings = easy, and this is needed to allow for expansion. Larger value is crank sliding plus bearing moving = more force. If the bearing is moving and you try to take out endfloat with shimming you can end up not leaving room for expansion between the crank and bearing faces. So it seizes. If the true endfloat is e.g. 0.06mm and the bearing moves 0.1mm so you put in shims for 0.1mm to go from 0.16mm to 0.06mm , you have just stopped any movement of the crank against the bearing as that's all that the shims can restrict. There would be 0.04mm too many shims. The bearing will still move 0.1mm and the engine wont go round for very long .. I would be tempted to go back to the builder and have a chat as at the moment he is the last person who touched that area.. And work out how to measure it from the rear, and keep track of the value as you keep driving it.
Gauge arrived, tried a few combinations and have settled for 0.1mm. #sweet let's get this lump back in.
Thanks. I’m going to put it back in and drive it for a few weeks to see if it changes(?). But I will keep an eye on it. A mate told me something about ‘crank creep’ , which I’m guessing is just exaggerated end float. The set up end float was 0.10mm and now it’s 0.21mm so I have gained around 0.06, but I just have no clue how it happened.I checked the nut and it’s still tight at around 250 Ibs .Clutch cable is at spec that’s why I was questioning the thrust bearing being the right one. Just can’t fathom it out.
If you smeared assembly lube over the shims when you put it together, the viscous oil film might have held it all apart a bit : certainly more than once it has washed off in engine oil. If the bearing is moving for some reason, shimming more can be a very bad idea as explained above, unless you want to try spinning the bearing in the case etc. Drive it and monitor it, and try to mostly listen to what your engine builder says not the mate down the pub or the oiks on TLB .. It should only change slowly or quicker if you like riding the clutch pedal all the time rather than using the handbrake..
I used sae 30 on the shims. I will put the engine back in, and monitor it. I’m a bit down about it all, tbh.
