This is my ride....

Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by gninnam, Oct 20, 2013.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You mean fit the friction plate upside down? No it's impossible. It's impossible to assemble the clutch wrong, it just won't have it. If it was I'm sure I would have at some point.
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2021
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  2. What’s the white plastic round thing dangling on the input shaft?
  3. It was from toilet tube so I could see how far the bearing was moving. Removed before the engine went in....
  4. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    I'm sure I got one wrong on the dowels once. It wasn't upside down but just not in the correct circular orientation and therefore didn't 'compress' down as I tightened the bolts. Must have dreamt that one then...must cut down on the cheese :)
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Ah, I see what you mean. If you look further back there is a pic of the fitted clutch. I couldn't see anything amiss but it's been 6-7 years since I fitted one.
    Here it is.
  6. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Me too lol. I remember commenting on gninnams grease ooze.
    gninnam and Zed like this.
  7. Thanks guys for trying to help.
    I will look to take the engine out soon and take some measurements to see if the parts align properly.
    Will also dismantle everything and check to make sure they are in and moving correctly!
    theBusmonkey and Zed like this.
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I did look a bit at that photo thinking the springs looked pushed in but I couldn't remember exactly what they do look like fitted so kept it to myself. Something still doesn't look quite right to me - I can say it now the engine's coming out anyway.
    gninnam likes this.
  9. 09.08.2021

    Took the engine out (again).

    Took some measurements of the clutch thrust bearing to the end of the bell housing and also the distance from the edge of the flange that mates to the bell housing and the clutch springs.

    Then measured the thrust bearing at full travel.

    What I have is below:

    Edge of the flange on the engine to the clutch springs is 59mm

    Thrust bearing in the relaxed position to the bell housing is 66mm

    So, in the relaxed position a difference of 7mm.

    Thrust bearing in full extension to the bel housing is 50mm

    So, it travels 16mm

    Remove the distance from the relaxed position of 7mm means it should push the springs around 9mm

    Is that enough ??


    Thrust bearing in the relaxed position.


    Thrust bearing in fully out position.


    End on shot of the bearing.


    Clutch pics



    I can move the clutch lever by hand with the engine out.

    What next?
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Now you have familiarised yourself with operating the clutch lever by hand without the clutch in the way, when you had removed the cable but not the engine, according to your calculations you should have had some free play.

    If for the sake of argument we say the clutch lever on the outside is about the same length as the forks on the inside, you should have had about 7mm free play at the end of the clutch lever before the release bearing contacted the clutch springs.

    Is that how it was? I could look back but I'm sure you remember. My memory is that you couldn't move the lever at all?
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    So I had a quick scan back and I'm not sure you had removed the cable when you were trying to operate the lever by hand. That's back a page post #767 ish

    That would indicate that it was over-adjusted or well adjusted in which case it should have "worked" as in not crunched gears... or maybe it wasn't adjusted enough - too much free play at the pedal still. :thinking:

    Did you judge the pedal with your hand? It's not obvious with your foot.
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2021
  12. With everything in place, when the pedal was pushed down, either by foot or hand, I never felt any resistance that you would expect when the thrust bearing is pushing against the fingers.
    Very weird :(
  13. What size clutch/ flywheel is it and which bell housing?
  14. Apart from the clutch the gearbox and engine are original to the van.
    Not sure on the size of the flywheel (original) and the clutch I bought was for the van (1600) - it is 200mm
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Hand = fingers - I could operate the clutch with the heel of my hand but I'd struggle using my fingers, probably couldn't do it, but the free play 20mm is very obvious.

    Is there are chance the cable just needed tightening a bit more? Did you try that when it crunched?
  16. I did tighten the cable, but the arm started to move forward so I had taken up the slack and it still didn't seem to make a difference.
  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It does. It's hard to get the nut to turn as it plops in and out of the sq hole in the arm due to the tension. I might be contradicting myself here, it's been years. I've even bodged a spanner onto the lever to take the strain off the cable in the past.
    Your numbers seem right, your photos look right...
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You must be fairly regularly adjusting clutches Dunc. What do you think of the last few posts on cable adjusting?
  19. Looking at the video’s I don’t think the cable wing nut is anywhere near wound up enough, it’s barely on the end of the threads.
    I’d be winding it right up until it’s permanently engaging the clutch and then work backwards from there!
    gninnam and Zed like this.
  20. Hmm - OK. I felt that if I tighten it any more that the thrust bearing would be dragging?
    So - everything looks good just the cable tightness - I will look to put everything back again and see what happens!
    Zed likes this.

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