Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by gninnam, Oct 20, 2013.
Looks like it won't
2 steps forward and 1 step back
1 step forward
Fitted the hose to connect the brake reservoir to the master cylinder reservoir and all good - just need to get some fluid and get it set up.
2nd step forward
Sussed out the issue with the nearside indicators not working.
After removing the emergency flasher unit from the dash, removing all the connectors and giving it a good clean I could then do continuity checks.
Turns out I when I had removed the wires from the connecting block so I could remove the steering column, I had put two of them back wrong !!!!
Put the two where they should be and all good.
1 step back.
From the indicator I noticed that a brown and white cable did not go into the cable block but was loose.
After looking at the wiring diagrams, worked out it should connect to the headlamp relay, chased the cable back from the relay and found it just dangling so connect it up.
When the indicator wand was pulled up I could hear the relay click in - so all good, but…..
Put the indicator module back in its housing and all connected to the steering column.
Pulled the emergency light knob and all indicators flashed. Good
Pushed the indicator left then right - all worked as it should. Good
Pulled the indicator stalk up and, Christmas lights on the dash and I can hear the relays going mad.
So, when now using the emergency switch, indicators or flash, the relay sounds very poorly - so, I suspect I have foobared something………….
I just love my bus!!!
Don’t get disheartened
Have a look back at everything you have achieved so far
Just fed up of chucking money (and time) at it and not getting any further..........
Will keep on plodding on as, after 15 years and counting (god knows how much) I have to see it through to the end.
It must be some kind of record but you're doing a damned thorough job on a bus that needed a lot of attention.
Fitted new connections on to a few wires so they can be connected - the first two are on the carb from the coil:
This one is the connection from the alternator to the battery
Tracing wires in the engine bay as I appear to have far to many so trying to work out what is what.....
Well - a package arrived a day earlier than expected
After unwrapping, this is what was inside:
A little bit of work required but nothing major - a few pics of the areas that will need addressingL
Once I have the engine installed in the van I will start on the doors!
Tested the flasher and headlight relays direct from the battery and both seem good.
Will continue to chase.
Regarding the test socket in the back of the van, do you leave it or remove it?
Loads of wires going to and from it and mine looks to have been removed once then scotch locked back in (shudder)??
I'd remove it, I removed mine, not too difficult.
I keep meaning to fit a little engine bay light to that bracket. Just need to find one I like.
That it the next task then
It does tidy things up. Some of the wires disappear into the loom, then double back and come out of the same place. Follow the colours and check the wiring diagram if any are not obvious.
Will do and many thanks.
Spent a good few hours this afternoon looking at my wiring issue - still no joy.
With a spare battery I directly connected the flasher unit to it and it worked so I know that it is good.
Carried out a resistance test, connected the battery live terminal up but disconnected the earth then connected the earth to my multimeter and touched an earth point with the other probe - no resistance which I believe means no earth leak?
Something I did notice, if I hold the multimeter positive probe on the bottom of the fusebox with negative probe to earth, it shows 12 volts. If I then turn something on (flasher unit, lights etc) the voltage drops to nothing - WTF?
You were lucky there was no fault as your meter was being the earth lead.
Better one probe on disconnected +ve cable and other anywhere on body or the earth lead. No battery in the circuit.
Had an hour to spare and decided to check if what is plugged into the fuse box for the leisure battery (I don’t have one though) works so hooked up the cable to the main battery.
Here is the leisure battery fuse box:
And, the head unit worked and Ihave tunes - the speakers are under the dash and 2 in the back near the rear door:
So - something electrical does work in the van
Got the electrics sorted
In the end, today I removed every connector from the fuse box that I could and removed all the relays.
Decided to start with the emergency flasher as this is powered even when the ignition is off. Connect the main cable from the battery to the fuse box. Insert all the relays then disconnect the earth that jumps from the flasher to the other switches (wipers and lights). Connected the cables from the flasher to the fusebox and………….. Same Marmite - drop in voltage and the relay going bananas.
Checked the fuse box and noticed that connected to the same connector as the main battery cable was a cable to the lights relay so unplugged this……. The flasher worked!
Put the cable back that I had just removed and the flasher still worked….!!!
Slowly started to add each switch in turn and constantly checked until everything was connected.
Only thing that didn’t work but was an easy fix was when the sidelight/headlights were on, the offside rear light wasn’t on - remembered that one of the cables for this had lost its fitting and was loosely connected so went in the engine compartment and touched it properly and the light came on so need to get a connector for it and solder on.
Didn’t test the brake or reverse lights yet. Will need a partner in crime to test the brake lights.
So - all good. Phew.
On to the next phase
Its generally better to crimp rather than solder connectors on as a crimp grips the insulation creating a free strain relief.
Solder by itself creates a hard spot and often without heatshrink protection, vibration will snap wires at soldered joints.
Quite often a bad spade female connector just needs a quick squeeze with pliers and a clean of the male tag it goes on, rather than replacement, although original brass ones will crack in the end.
Good though, you are getting there..
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