Ok good point about the b pillar outer. Not sure how much I need. Yes similarly with the L piece I assume I just try and keep all that green painted part?
Clean the paint and any filler to good metal plus a few inches to be sure, you'll be painting it anyway?
Should I remove the whole outer sill do you think? On the other side we only replaced about this much but someone criticised that approach (not on here). I have a complete replacement sill. Rust isn’t bubbling through but there is surface rust on the inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m working on the same section. Replaced the whole slider track over 25 years ago. Last stop on my second trip around the bus while painting. Started with rusted inner rockers. Was just going to patch them. Ended up replacing the middle section below the track. I made the inner rockers removable by welding fixed brackets to the outriggers and welding captive nuts to the middle section and floor. Also repaired the inside of the C pillar.
Interesting. I plan to cut out my belly pans to see what’s beneath. Also now decided to replace the deformation panel. I’m gaining confidence as I remove panels. Just hope I can do the same as I begin to weld it back up.
Wow, I bought some ceramic belts for my power file and they are a game changer. https://abrasive-systems.co.uk/abra...-held-machines/powerfile-belts/fx87-36-457x13 I’m thinking I’ll use some vatcan rust converter and then paint black rustoleum paint on any metal I can reach before I weld back up. Anything wrong with that? What I can’t reach I’m going to use Dynax S50 cavity wax on. When people refer to cutting back to good metal, good metal can still have surface rust right?
Generally speaking, I'd advise taking the paint off way further before you decide where to cut. Nothing worse than cleaning it up pre welding and finding it's too thin or there was another rusty patch an inch further up. You'r getting away with it because your bus is actually in quite good condition for a resto bus. Poly abrasive discs are excellent for removing paint and filler without any damage to the steel.
Sill - if you'd made the plug weld holes in the inner sill and welded from underneath you wouldn't have a line of welds to grind flat on the outside. Every little helps.
The wheel arch looks quite far away where it attaches to the A post. It also seems high at the back of the step meaning there is a gap at either end. I'm hoping that as I start to tack it in I will be able to make it fit but it does seem a bit far off when clamped up. Can I drill plug weld holes from the top through the lip rather than through the wheel arch itself and then weld upwards?
The guy teaching my evening class has suggested drilling holes in both sheets and using self tapping screws to pull them together. I’ll give that a go.
Get it tacked to the B pillar first and then clamp it to the a pillar. You may find a bottle jack between the chassis rail and centre of the arch is helpful for manipulating it into position. I assume you're fitting the door to check your door gaps? My thread has a few posts from when I fitted my arches: https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/a-restoration-for-iris.53455/page-38#post-1342136
Is there a possibility you could put the van back on it's wheels? I tried doing an arch with the van in the air and it also wouldn't meet until a friend (panelbeater) suggested to put it back on it's wheels as the body will then be in its natural relaxed state. Worked for me
Thanks James I'll start as you suggest and remember to fit the door. and Klunk that is a good idea. I can't actually remember if its up on one or two axle stands but yes I could fairly easily put it back on its wheels before welding it up I should think. I'll have a look.
Spend the time getting your door gaps front, back and top looking nice and then you can use the bottom of the door to get the arch in the right place.
