The Middle Way - Rolling Resto

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Max Davies, Jun 2, 2021.

  1. Ok good point about the b pillar outer. Not sure how much I need. Yes similarly with the L piece I assume I just try and keep all that green painted part?
     
    Zed likes this.
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Clean the paint and any filler to good metal plus a few inches to be sure, you'll be painting it anyway?
     
    PanZer likes this.
  3. [​IMG]
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    Should I remove the whole outer sill do you think? On the other side we only replaced about this much but someone criticised that approach (not on here). I have a complete replacement sill. Rust isn’t bubbling through but there is surface rust on the inside.


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    Mully_89 likes this.
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I would. the other side is quite different and I can see it sometimes being better to patch it.
     
    Max Davies likes this.
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    Yes the right call Zed, thanks.
     
    Mully_89 and Zed like this.
  6. IMG_1477.jpeg IMG_1559.jpeg I’m working on the same section. Replaced the whole slider track over 25 years ago. Last stop on my second trip around the bus while painting.

    Started with rusted inner rockers. Was just going to patch them.
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    Ended up replacing the middle section below the track.
    IMG_1494.jpeg
    I made the inner rockers removable by welding fixed brackets to the outriggers and welding captive nuts to the middle section and floor.

    Also repaired the inside of the C pillar.
     
  7. Interesting. I plan to cut out my belly pans to see what’s beneath. Also now decided to replace the deformation panel. I’m gaining confidence as I remove panels. Just hope I can do the same as I begin to weld it back up.
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    From what I've seen in your photos it just might be all good under your pans.
     
    PanZer likes this.
  9. Wow, I bought some ceramic belts for my power file and they are a game changer. https://abrasive-systems.co.uk/abra...-held-machines/powerfile-belts/fx87-36-457x13

    I’m thinking I’ll use some vatcan rust converter and then paint black rustoleum paint on any metal I can reach before I weld back up. Anything wrong with that?

    What I can’t reach I’m going to use Dynax S50 cavity wax on.

    When people refer to cutting back to good metal, good metal can still have surface rust right?
     
  10. [​IMG]

    I’m going to try and weld up that b post gap to save myself a £25 inaccuracy penalty…
     
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Generally speaking, I'd advise taking the paint off way further before you decide where to cut. Nothing worse than cleaning it up pre welding and finding it's too thin or there was another rusty patch an inch further up. You'r getting away with it because your bus is actually in quite good condition for a resto bus.
    Poly abrasive discs are excellent for removing paint and filler without any damage to the steel.
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    matty likes this.
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Sill - if you'd made the plug weld holes in the inner sill and welded from underneath you wouldn't have a line of welds to grind flat on the outside. Every little helps. :)
     
  13. Yes thanks for the tips. Certainly helps when I’m going at this glacial pace.
     
  14. The wheel arch looks quite far away where it attaches to the A post. It also seems high at the back of the step meaning there is a gap at either end.

    I'm hoping that as I start to tack it in I will be able to make it fit but it does seem a bit far off when clamped up.

    Can I drill plug weld holes from the top through the lip rather than through the wheel arch itself and then weld upwards?
     
  15. The guy teaching my evening class has suggested drilling holes in both sheets and using self tapping screws to pull them together. I’ll give that a go.
     
  16. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Max Davies likes this.
  17. Is there a possibility you could put the van back on it's wheels? I tried doing an arch with the van in the air and it also wouldn't meet until a friend (panelbeater) suggested to put it back on it's wheels as the body will then be in its natural relaxed state. Worked for me :thumbsup:
     
  18. Thanks James I'll start as you suggest and remember to fit the door.

    and Klunk that is a good idea. I can't actually remember if its up on one or two axle stands but yes I could fairly easily put it back on its wheels before welding it up I should think. I'll have a look.
     
  19. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Spend the time getting your door gaps front, back and top looking nice and then you can use the bottom of the door to get the arch in the right place.
     

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