Thanks for the constructive advice. That's a good point about the belly pan bagpus, maybe better to tackle that inner sill from within? I'd be grateful for any views on a. what should have been done and b. what is the best plan now? Like I said up top I'm doing it with someone who has experience of classic cars but not much of bays so any specific advice much appreciated.
One thing that might explain is that the L shaped B post filler with the 2 diagonal holes had been replaced in a previous wheel arch replacement and was of poor quality and quite badly corroded on the inside. There's was also a problem in the corner of the b post and the seat belt anchor/wheel arch where they welded in an elbow because the metal was in poor condition and the metal around that had since deteriorated meaning it had to come out. I take the point about the B post and that could have been kept a couple of inches lower but the L shaped piece needed to come out I think. Anyway I'm a bit of a conduit because I didn't make the decisions.
Yea I did exactly the same-early in my project I cut out way more than I needed to, it’s the one thing I would do differently if I could go back to the start. It would have saved so much time and work and probably money……
Slow progress on the offside wheel arch/sills/b pillar. 80 welds between the b pillar and the step Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
After replacing a lot of arches, I found the best way to leave the tub unhurt was clean up the spot welds from BELOW so you can see them, draw a line through them with a cutting disc withoit cutting through anything. Change to worn rounded grinding disc. Use the line you drew for the blunt disc to follow. You're trying to grind until it's paper thin, blued, glowing, but not through. Now you have a few papery bits left to clean up and the tub is like new. In my case I'd then spot (not plug) weld the new arch on exactly as VW did. Finished job looks great and no plug welds to grind.
Thanks Zedders. The previous replacement one was spot welded on I think. I'm not going to be down there until Friday but if I'm involved in the final prep I'll give that a go.
If it is a Brazilian arch, it will probably need some cutting where the flange at the front of the step meets the cab floor. I didn’t do this when fitting mine and I ended up with excess metal in the wheel tub.
https://www.alanhschofield.com/ourp...plete-Right-Top-Quality-7279-211809502DM.html It is where it attaches to the post. Will need some thought and adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Really enjoyable day beginning to put this back together. 2 pieces fabricated to repair and replace belly pan and inner sill. Then welding on the 3 panels from schofields. My first time welding. I did about 30% of it and really enjoyed it. Getting things to fit when they look miles out is something I could never have done alone but at least have some idea about now. Pretty happy with the lines. Just need to finish dressing the welds and then wheel arch tomorrow. Beacons Thursday . . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wheel arch on and home today. Decent panel but still needing a fair amount of pulling out in the middle to fit. Had to repair that section of the lip in the photo. Still have to grind off the inner welds and wire brush, stone chip and paint the wheel arch. Probably 3 more hours to go on this side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m just looking ahead to the other wheel arch. I won’t get round to it until after the summer. I’ll post some photos of the rust patches. It’s otherwise really very solid. Do I replace the whole thing or just the local area around the rust? I’ve bought a replacement whole arch but could presumably cut the needed parts out. Suggestions that I cut out too much good metal on the other side so I’m guessing not replace the whole thing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ll do that. It looks very good except for those three areas though. Solid and original. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Didn’t feel that clean painting the stone chip over a patchwork of clean green, vatcaned surface rust and the original underseal and I can’t help but feel it’s a half decent job but I’m pleased I know every inch of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like your approach. It took me ages to learn to replace only the 40% of the assembly that was rusted...rather than bust out the gazillion spot welds on the other 60% that were still hanging on as hard as the day they left the factory. The 40% you replace them has a nice place to go with other pieces all around it that show how it should fit. Nice work.
