The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Is yours a Westy louvre in a std window aperture?

 

Devon louvre in std. Kombi window.

 

Started it twice, once at home and once at the farm shop, drove it for a few miles including idling at traffic lights and flooring it. Bought some bananas, despite these not being grown in Hampshire ..

All without poking the new ignition system, or bits falling off the wiring.

 

Window out and for once, on removing something, I wasn’t greeted with all manner of nastiness.


Looks pretty good. No screw holes though (hence why PO used bolts - i’ll probably do the same but in a better way).



Now I won’t be surprised if it takes me a week to spruce the whole thing up, but at least it’s something I can do during times it’s so cold I can’t feel my fingers.

 

The ball bearing races arrived today, (one to knacker, one to use) for the sliding door roller.
This is for the aftermarket replacement roller bearing that runs on the track.
When that arrived, years ago, it didnt have enough ball bearings in it, despite costing £25, so it had to be filled up. Couldnt really complain as it "fitted" and "worked" and there is no other choice apart from having a friend with a lathe.

Despite that, after probably about 10000 operations, it wore out.

I decided to use a 7x19x6mm shielded bearing (cheap standard size, about £3.50 each) . This almost fitted into the "wheel" part of the after market roller, but the circlip that originally held the "home-made" ball bearing race assembly would not lock in place.
A few measurements showed the bearing was maybe 0.5mm wider than the depth of the hole it dropped into. So I got out a carbide burr with a flat face and a tapered body, so I could grind down on the metal at the bottom of the hole, until the bearing clipped in.

I also had to file down the stub on the moving casting because it was maybe 0.5mm too large diameter.
Clipped bearing into wheel, bolted bearing and wheel onto carrier, with it set up so if the circlip pops off, the wheel will still stay on the bearing (just about) .. now the slider slides closed again on a 3 degree slope.

I have owned my bus for over 25% of its lifetime and about 70% of its mileage, and operate the sliding door maybe 10x a day 5 days a week.

 

Like mine, I am pretty sure that louvre just goes into a stock glass seal without any bolts or washers or junk like that - you can see the U shaped rubber channel that makes it the same thickness as glass round the edge.
Unless the PO messed up by rebuilding the window aperture a bit too large.

 

Well it is never taken off the table that the PO messed up!

The original seal (which I have a direct replacement for) fitted well except for the corners (which means it didn’t really fit). I’ll be taking the other windows out so can salvage a seal to try…see which one works best.

Cheers.

 

just changed mine yesterday. Rollers from C&C. I was surprised that the bearings in the old ones seemed ok but the diameter and shape of them had worn considerably. Seemed to work much better but had to rush in to get out of the hail! View attachment 130060 View attachment 130060 View attachment 130060

 

just changed mine yesterday. Rollers from C&C. I was surprised that the bearings in the old ones seemed ok but the diameter and shape of them had worn considerably. Seemed to work much better but had to rush in to get out of the hail! View attachment 130060 View attachment 130060 View attachment 130060

 

You know that sinking feeling of inevitability when you swap a brush pack into an alternator in situ in this early



and the ign light is still on and no voltage coming out of the spade terminal
Engine out, alternator swap I suppose

 

Was it a brush pack or internal reg?

 

Nicked off this pretty new looking thing I found in my cupboard but can’t remember where it came from!
Brushes were twice as long as the ones I took out.

 

"What have I done?" question always come to mind at this point.

Not as bad I I thought, but will take a bit of fettling to sort. Quite a lot of filler and choices about where to cut back too.

Bottom edge of drivers door.

 

Jim, forgot to ask you what brand of Epoxy primer do you use and how does it work with the 2 pack?
Thanks

 

Keep going on the skin, you haven't got to good steel yet.

 

Got the gubbins out of my Align bore case, to rebuild the crank up.

 

Yes Boss

I'm worn out said the stripper to the tool...

 

Are you welding new steel in?
If so you need to go much further back with the thick filler stripping !
You’re way off worrying about primer yet

 

Indeed, take all the filler off, see what you have.

 

This is as far as I got before tools were downed. Obviously more filler present, but still starting to look better.