The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

I was discussing how my stainless single quiet pack cracked with a guy involved with Landrover Defender restorations and he says that the engine guy he uses always recommends mild steel exhausts because stainless steel exhausts crack quicker than steel exhausts rust...
It doesn't help that you need to manage humidity when welding stainless. Done on a damp day, the hydrogen from the water vapour in the air gets into the weld area and makes it brittle.

 

I had a stainless steel exhaust on my Hillman Imp back in the late 70’s and it was an issue then.
That unfortunately cracked… they don’t seem to like vibration

 

Jobs to do
Change oil & filter - have oil and filter.
Helicoil a pulled exhaust stud - have gaskets, exhaust paste, Helicoil kit but no stud.

I can't remember for sure but I'm wondering if it's this one that the stud screwed out of. At the top, does this look like it already has a timesert type of repair? Or, is that arrowed rectangle a helicoil tang? Or maybe looking at the dragged threads perhaps none of the above.


This is it's opposite number, it looks different around the hole to me.


What is slightly annoying is this is the head I took off a few years ago, it would have been easy then. I'm not intending to take it off again. The exhaust doesn't sound like it's blowing, but I know one of the studs was pulling when I last fitted the heat exchanger. I carried on anyway as you do - tighten until the thread strips then back it off a bit style. lol

Other 2 from same head for ref.




I'd thought to reuse the stud as nobody stocks the M8/M8 type but looking at those, I think not.

 

Put the engine in, now off for a walk.

 

You'll just see a green blur shoot past...

 

exhaust fixed vamos

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Dropped the engine out to try and fix the leaky main oil seal. It's leaked since fitting it last time. Measured the end float and it's out of spec at .008 and the shims look pretty tired, so ordering some new ones in is up next.

 

I'm heading along t'303 (probably queuing) in a couple of weeks so I'll give you a regal wave ...

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After the success in hopefully sorting the cutting out yesterday gave it a clean inside and fitted a new hook up plug the old one had split

 

I did that once , I must of checked the van over a hundred times
Worrying that it might break down
It sort of did
Servo pipe melted a hole in itself on the hotspot… at least it was on The second half of the mission

 

Took it for a drive With the dust pan brush on The front bumper came back looked at the exhaust , thought to myself there is no way that lot is going to be easy to replace

 

CV joint just gone loud clickety under load on the way home from Congi’s, luckily only 3 miles from home so took it slowly back to the workshop.
Off to France in 2 weeks so I’ve whipped both drive shafts off and ordered complete new ones from Schofields, only £20 more than 4 joints!
As far as I know they’re the originals so probably due for replacement soon anyway.
Spotted a split boot the other day on the side that’s not just gone so that was already on the list!

 

Fitted a decent beam two weeks ago and things were a bit frantic meaning I never had a GOOD look at the one I took off ...

JEEEZZ

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Totally weldable with some 2mm sheet. I am sure mine looks the same under the patches.

 

Bit of filler, that'll be fine

 

FTFY

 

I checked my leisure battery as while I was running the inverter to power the mains Strimmer ( 7 times more power than a battery one) it tripped the inverter on hitting a heavy patch of thistles.

The battery was OK but because the terminals are on the side nearest the side of the bus, rain had caused the positive clamp to get a bit green and oxidized.
Sanded down the battery clamps and greased them to keep the air and water out, then replaced the clamps.

CCA of the battery was 1400 amps which is good.

 

That looks like it’s been repaired at the bottom some time in the past.
It’s served you well over the years