Techenders, September 2020

Discussion in 'Show Event Photos' started by MorkC68, Sep 13, 2020.

  1. The lever in your photo is in the "pulled" position but the cable is slack. The lever should spring back away from the cable. Is it broken?
     
  2. The cable was spot on the same as the old one but the longer "plug" on the end made it "longer" ... I might first try just turning it through the bracket/clip as opposed to having it butt up like in the photo.
    Anticlockwise tightens the spiral sleeve up instead of opening it out so, if anything it'll grip the cable more and make it all more of a piece.
    At one stage there was cable movement in the sleeve at each end, but not at the same time! (movement at one end didn't register at the other) so I thought I had a split cable ... If I did it looks like tightening the sleeve made it all come out as one piece ... Kept the old ones but haven't tested them yet.
    NB! I won't post the photo again bit had a fairly nasty nip on the end of one finger when releasing the drill chuck after the anticlockwise/reverse thing .... Because I could hear the front end of the cable clanking around I didn't appreciate the recoil built up in the sleeve :rolleyes: .... so run the drill forward just a few turns before releasing it :thumbsup:
     
    Coda likes this.
  3. Well, ONE of the levers doesn't have a full range of movement (something I'll have to take up with the guy who supplied and fitted new units a while back :rolleyes: ) but I'm pretty sure the one in the photo was moving well ...
    The cable is pulled fully forward.
    I'm not with the bus right now but I THINK that lever moves forward from the position in the photo, so if the "plug" on the end was shorter I could lose that bit of slack showing and clamp it .....
     
    zedders likes this.
  4. How does it look at the spring clamp up front?
     
  5. As in? .... The lever is in the position that pulls the cable fully forward in the sleeve. Is that what you mean?
     
  6. There are an awful lot of these cables at slightly different lengths/LHD/RHD/lever configurations...
     
    Coda likes this.
  7. I found when replacing one cable that the sheath could sit in several positions under the spring clip. It made sense to me to clamp the cable where the metal ferrule is. The old cable I took out was clamped further down, so the whole system of operating the cable relied on the sheath not slipping due to friction, rather then the metal ferrule not allowing it to move. I could be wrong, and maybe that's why my cable came up about an inch too short. I used a second barrel clamp contraption on the rear end, in reverse to attach to the first, and they are temporarily connected by cable ties :oops:
     
    Dub and Dubber likes this.
  8. Ok thanks, I'll look into that. I think that, having held the old and new together and found the only difference to be the end piece, I assumed that would be the only possible cause ... Shame on me for abandoning my osteopathic principles (if the answer is "obvious" it's probably wrong)
     
    Coda likes this.
  9. The metal ferrule jobbies are nigh on flush with the top of the bracket, the top swage being just inside.
     
  10. Sorry, not looked at the bus yet, but previous reply said that in the photo the cable is fully forward .... It's the opposite :rolleyes:
    and it's not yet clamped.
    I guess I could pull the cable forward, using the lever, until there's no slack, then clamp it ... but then the lever "starting" position would be getting on for half way between open and closed :confused:
    Indeed! We discovered three different set ups on 71 72 and 74 at TE o_O
    I double checked my new cable packet labels first and didn't open the new NS one until the OS one was in the conduit and hooked up at the front ;)
     
    zedders likes this.
  11. Think my original sleeves, (and now the new ones) were just resting on that bracket, not sat in behind it like that ...........
     
  12. In a few years the clamps will rust up and the bolts shear when you try and loosen them to take the engine out. At that point you'll :rolleyes: that you ever cared, cut the cables with wire cutters and (if you bother) join them up with choc blocks. :thumbsup:

    Or maybe that's just me. :oops:
     
    Lasty and Dub and Dubber like this.
  13. Think I'll smother them in grease or something then .... Just found this useful for the rethink:
    https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/frustrating-heater-cable-connection.68961/
     

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