Hi, would there be any reason the distributor is getting really hot? The oil temp is normal. the electronic distributor has failed presumably because it got too hot and I’ve replaced it but after a journey the new one is very hot to the touch.
Do you have an oil temperature gauge ? Or an infra-red thermometer "gun" The distributor casing is only as hot as the engine casing and that gets extra hot just after running as the cooling is turned off. (With electronic ignitions, they actually add a bit of heat as the transistors in them produce around 2 watts of heat, with points, nothing really.) But it may be a good idea to have a measurement of the oil temperature too or at least the temperature of the underside of the engine, as what you think of as normal may in reality also be a bit hotter than you think.
Oil temp is around 100c and replaced it with 009. I’m currently at centre parks so bit limited with tools! Could it be related to me adding this deflector as it was previously missing
I’ve just had it running for 20mins at 2000 rpm then an idle and I can hold it with my hands… maybe I’m just being paranoid?
No, that should be there. I'd stop fretting. If you're grabbing the dissy after stopping, it will be hot from heat soak.
maybe at centre parks, but the scary ride may be the one home Probably worrying about nowt in reality though
I'll stick my neck out and say ... Not sure - but the 009 lekky ignition modules won't fit an SVDA , of that I'm sure ... So probably not .... ? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
No they are not the same, the connection from the condenser won't reach or will too long (which I suppose would work), I forget which is which. If it runs, the electronic ignition is not broken, it won't make your distributor hot.
This is probably the first 'long' run you have done. And it takes about 15 miles to get everything up to temperature. Most of my electronic module failures manifested after driving the M27 for about 10 miles on a warm afternoon, then slowing down into a traffic queue, oil temperature 100-110C , watching the cylinder head temperatures rocket with heat soak as the engine idled, and getting misfires, pops and bangs from the exhaust. If I did the same journey without the sudden slow-down, maybe 2 hours into the evening , the engine would cool down evenly and the same electronic module would work perfectly. Depending on Centre Parc location, getting to the Longleat one involves hills which will have you pedal to the metal for some time.
Blimey! Mine doesn't do that, the heads cool down straight away in that situation. As the heads are the hottest part of your engine, where's the heat coming from when you stop/ severely cut down burning petrol in them at idle?
