If it cranks but wont fire. Check the distributor is down in the engine. They can pop out if you dont put them in right and the timing will go off. Is there actually 12 volts on the coil at all ... ignition switch.. Check for spark. Check for fuel. Check the timing. Do a compression test. [My motorway loss of power was remarkably quiet considering a piston was in pieces and there was a hole in the engine.]
As above basics first. Check for 12v on the black wire to the coil. Possibly burnt out ignition switch or even feed wire as that circuit is not fused. If that’s ok check for a spark & fuel, look down carb while working throttle should see fuel squirting in from accelerator pump.
What about the little "inner" cap, it's loose on top of the bottle, when you take the cap off. That's what mine was. Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
Agreed Mine was done by PO. Took me three years to finally find the cause of my occasional weird loss of power, and probably the reason they sold it to me so cheap in the first place Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
Anoth Another favourite is the sticker off a new fuel tank level sender, swims around, kills the engine by sitting on the end of the fuel takeoff pipe in the tank, then drifts off again while its on the back of the yellow taxi and so on..
this. my main bearing on cylinder 3 exploded and I barely noticed Sent from my ELE-L09 using Tapatalk
Laurie Pettit once showed me a T25 with a wasserboxer engine someone had brought round for him to tune as it was down on power - there was a square hole on top of the case with a conrod lying beside it. lol
Coil receiving 12V from black live wire ☑️ Fuel does enter carbs when accelerator pumped ☑️ I take it then, that the fuel pump would not be a suspect? Dizzy does not appear to have moved any, it is well fixed. need to check spark next, once I find a suitable assistant to crank the engine while I hold the spark plugs I'm ordering compression tester Bit worried about the thought of a piston having given up, but there are no obvious external signs, no massive oil leak or holes in the engine. When my old engine gave out with something similar (I never had it investigated, just bought a new engine for convenience and little overall price difference) there was oil everywhere. I got a reading of 20. Is that ok? So still checks to do, almost got it started before, when I re-installed the fully charged battery..... it just kicked in and died before gaining any real momentum
AH! ok? I'll check I've done it right, ( I disconnected any power supply as in the instructions and set to lowest OHM setting then one probe to baseplate and one to body of dizzy) but assuming I have why would it have such a reading?
Baseplate not being grounded properly. Undo one end of that white wire and measure the resistance of it.
If you need to crank the engine, you can connect a thick 4mm2 wire to the spare spade terminal on the starter motor, turn the ignition to "run", check its out of gear then if you touch the wire onto battery positive it will crank.
Even with a £2.99 meter if it reads 5 ohms probes shorted that still means 15 ohms on the moving plate not good.
