So, since my engine and carbs were replaced back in 2014, my van has been running nicely. I've had a few minor problems here and there, mainly related to the gearbox but that too has been fixed. I've had some routine failures like the starter motor and the accelerator cable snapped on me last year but most of these things have been easy enough fixes. A couple of weeks ago I took the van out for a run, only a few days after last using it, everything seemed to be running smoothly then suddenly, whilst on the motorway, I lost power couldn't accelerate at all. My first thought was "s##t has the fuel line come off am I on fire?" Quick mirror check no smoke or flames! Pulled onto hard shoulder realised the engine had cut out. Jumped out quick check round, all hoses in place and intact, all wires appear to be where they should be. Nothing I could do on the hard shoulder but then couldn't restart. Rechecked wires etc noticed one had come off the coil, probably knocked off by me whilst reaching in to the compartment. Re-attached it but made the classic mistake of attaching it to the wrong terminal. As it was a black wire I put it on the negative terminal without really thinking about it. Bad move as this will have fried my electronic ignition module. Got the AA out and delivered home. New ignition module ordered and fitted still no start. What I don't know is why it cut out on me in the first place. Could the (mechanical) fuel pump have just given up? I have a new one to replace it anyway but what else could cause sudden cutting out like that?
Have a look inside your distributor to see if the thin earth braid to the breaker plate has burnt out after the wiring faux pas.
Your original sudden loss of power might still be what you first thought, a fuel problem. So, dirty fuel filter? Bit of plastic in your fuel tank (like the reddex cap that I had)? Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
From what I can see all looks fine. I’m guessing the wire you’re referring to would be the white one in this unit? The red and black ones are new anyway they belong to the new ignition module. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve changed the filter, it was a thought of mine too but alas not. Fuel flows fine up to the pump. The hose from the pump to carbs also fine. Funny you should mention a redex cap as I’d only put redex in a few days before! The cap didn’t go in though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've replaced the module to no avail. I guess I could replace the whole distributor but other than the module, what else in there would suddenly give out?
Pop a spare plug on a HT lead and ground the plug on the case see if you're getting spark. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Looks like someone's been in there before, with the white wire. Get your meter, set it to low ohms and check for continuity between the moving base plate and the body of the dissy. Also make sure that gurt big screw they've put in isn't stopping the baseplate moving.
The dizzy is a replacement Accuspark unit which was fitted about 7 years ago after I had too many issues with standard ignition and attempts to set the points gap. Been OK up to now, best move I ever made.... I've still got the old dizzy just in case... The screw isn't as big as it appears in the pictures It secures the electronic module plate to the base of the dizzy. The rotor turns normally I'll check with the meter when I put the battery back in. What am I checking though? I'm rubbish with electronics...
This ^^^ Gotta start somewhere and until you check the basics it's all guesswork ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
It might be the angle of the pic but the air gap looks large. And a broken bit off of that mutilated screw could be anywhere.
Not sure there’s a way to alter the air gap, there’s only one screw holding the module in place and unlike points it’s not an adjustable hole, but I was under the impression it shouldn’t make too much difference but that the unit shouldn’t touch the pick up ring. I think the photo makes it look wider than it is in reality but I’ll have a look non the less. Update: the module 'appears' further away at the top in the picture than it is but there is not much gap at all between the pick up ring and the module. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, because the module grounds through the bare baseplate. The two wires are +ve supply and coil connection. The old favourite is putting the +12 supply on the contact breaker side. If the breakers are closed, you’ve got a dead short that’s likely to burn the earth braid out. Might have been what happened, might not.
It won't matter, I've moved mine from as close to as far away as possible to see. Nothing changed, dwell same, timing same.
