Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by MorkC68, May 12, 2013.
Looking back, if the bolt wasn't quite tight, we could have veered off anywhere
Did mine today - am amazed what a difference a couple of hours work can make to the driving experience. Is now stable at 50 whereas before I was all over the place. Am very happy.
Thanks again for your pictures and write up Mork - referred back to them quite a few times while doing mine.
That was indeed scary ...
Glad you're sorted - nice write up!
Can't quite follow the issue over the pinch bolt groove....even new Bilstein Idler pins are like it.
You're right - when I thought about it the steerings quite safe - dunno what I was thinking there! lol
Here you are
That's just the job buddy I was trying to use a 19mm socket but the hole is to big so won't centre !!
Simon - I've got a tool for winding it out. If you want to borrow it PM me your address and I'll post it to you.
Cheers bud mark is posting me his out I did gave my own go before I posted see but the socket don't centre but I tried
I did mine in about half an hour, I didn't break any of the ball joints, I just drove the arm up and zip tied it to the gear rod tube, drove the bushes out with a 20mm long socket and put a 14mm one in it to extend it, drove the top bush in with the old pin inside them until flat then used the old bush on the pin to send it up 5mm or so then punched it to the top with the socket, as it came out the top used the thrust washer with the kit to gauge the 1.5mm, pressed the bottom one in with the old pin, put the seal on the top in boiling water to get it over the housing.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hi I'm in Thailand with my RHD 1974 bay, bought a kit from Bangkok, delivered today along with a new drag link and a damper, the kit is from Brasil and the drag link is swag from Germany, the damper is from unknown, paid about £85 delivered, removed the old one, along with the bushes, which were original vw as was the top thrust washer, so how long have they been in, there was lots of up and down play, and the bus was a nightmare to keep straight. i have attached a photo of the kit parts as i am a little unsure of the correct order of re-install of the seals and washers, any help will be greatfully received. I have lots to do with the bus so this probably will not be my only post.
It must be wibbly steering day ..
I thought I had steering idler pin wobbles following an MOT advisory but it is not the case.
I traced the clunk to the arm in the steering box rocking, as you turned the steering, the shaft moved backwards and forwards at the top but the drag link stayed still.
I took the steering box apart to be greeted with shiny oil full of bronze.
There are two bronze bearing bushes on the output shaft, and the 18mm wide bush next to the adjusting screw has maybe a millimetre of wear on it. As you do up the adjuster screw, so the shaft moves away from the bushing , and so there is less bearing surface so it wears faster ...
The adjuster screw comes in from the bottom in this picture, and you can see the steps worn by the end of the steering output shaft as the screw was done up over time.
I have ordered some more bushes (four in total to allow for snafu) from Simply Bearings and will then amuse myself by discovering how the metal of the box has been peened over to hold the bushings in place.
The worm and roller look quite good, but the bushings are grooved..
Nice looking bus.
There should be a cap for the bottom of the pin that faces the road.
It is good you have a new clamping bolt for the steering arm - mine got bent and was a nightmare to get it in without crossing the thread.
Grease nipple out on front of beam or you slice it off when you change bushes.
Then from the bottom.
Bushes into tube.
Grease between bushes iin tube.
big seal on top of tube
dust cap with big hole.
small o ring on dust cap
steering arm. bolt in arm
taggy bit of metal on bolt to lock it.
May have to jack up on the bolt to get the arm on.
And lining up the slot in the pin with the arm needs lights and mirrors to look throigh the bolt hole.
Missing dust cap on bottom.
Grease nipple back on.
Pump up with grease until it comes out the bottom.
many thanks, the thrust bearing in my kit was not big enough to go over the bush, so it would seem that it had to be fitted at the bottom with the wavy washer at the top, was a bit confused, but checking on USA sites they seem to do it that way round, it was a real pain getting the clamping bolt in, and had to reuse the old one, the non threaded section was longer, all seems ok just got the drag link and damper to put back, and hopefully a less scary drive after. i can only work for a few hours at a time as its so hot and had sun burnt bottom half of legs. next job remove fuel tank and clean, had no fuel for a few years, using a 10 litre petrol can at the moment, I am moving soon so going to do that once the bus is at the new place. better you than me with the box rebuild.
Hi any chance you could make me one up as I'm struggling to find anything that fits please and let me know wot I owe you thanks very much appreciated
Ill let you know dude, gimme a day or so
Thats great thanks
A while back whilst doing an idler pin i came a bit stuck as the bushes wouldn't move for love nor money - after a bit of cussing and coffee drinking, I discovered that one of the sockets for the rattle gun (21mm I think????) fit the hole perfect, and the end of the air chisel fit perfectly in the socket... hmm. Tac-a-tac-a-tac, 5 seconds later both bushes had been removed through the top. 'Peezy!
I might be missing something fundamental, I might be lucky my bus hasn't exploded, but, if no one has any objections to say that's the case, it might be a helpful hint for someone else with sticky inny bushings.
Separate names with a comma.