Rekeying a lock - Tutorial

Discussion in 'How To' started by Chrisradioman, Aug 11, 2011.

  1. Are we saying you can have one key for all locks including the ignition?
    My cab doors and sliding door keys are not symmetrical and all the same but my ignition and engine and rear hatch are symmetrical and they are all different so I currently have 4 different keys.
    I'd dearly like to have one key for all and for that key to be symmetrical so I can put it in without concentrating which way round it goes.

    So can this still be done?

    I've gotta get this done soon with festivals and shows coming up, I have no spare for 3 out of 4 of my keys, I'm going to need to give the family their own keys and have spares and I dont want to be wandering round having more keys than a jailer.
  2. ^^^ To answer my own question, yes it is possible, even though my rear hatch & engine keys appeared to be a different profile I successfully rekeyed them to the same key as the doors.
    The PO had left two rekeying kits from in the glovebox, the holes in these wafers were slightly smaller but it didn't seem to matter, I only used 3 of these then moved around the older ones. on the hatch I only ended up removing one wafer and not putting it back, the rest I just moved around. there only seems to be two or three wafer sizes.
    Only the ignition to do now.
    I also did this mod while I had access to the hatch lock, this allows you to open your rear hatch from your bed and loop a cable round the catch to have a variable sized opening for ventilation purposes.

    edit: Ignition done, this one is the most fiddly of all, the wafers are larger than the other locks and the springs are tricky, getting the ignition removed is a task in itself. settled with removing 3 wafers, putting them back in a different order was problematic due to the springs dislodging.
    This is a very satisfying job, thanks to Chrisradioman for taking the time to post this up here K+ to you
  3. Very interesting.... my cab door locks are different from each other and the rest of the van so would like to get these sorted. The keys for these though are different to the 'main' one used for the ignition/slider/hatch. When I got spares cut the guy in Timpsons said he couldn't cut them on the same blanks as the 'main' key as they had a different profile ridge. Job for a summers eve I imagine...
  4. Great post!
  5. Has anyone done this using locks they don't have keys for?
    I bought a couple of tailgate and engine locks in chrome without keys and planned (plan) to rekey them to the rest of my locks. I followed the tutorial but couldn't get the barrels out of the locks. Any ideas?
  6. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Which locks couldn't you get the barrels out off ?
  7. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    i've got 4 keys that came with the van and 2 i had cut when i got it (when i 1st got the van i couldn't make some of them work and the 2 bronze originals were worn really thin) now i've had the van a while i thought i'd try to see what key does what - i was supprised to find that all 6 keys will open any door and start the van even though there are clearly massive differences in all of them...... the only lock i can't lock or unlock is the engine bay one so i'll eventually re key that i guess.... i think therefore all my locks are very worn.
  8. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    More likely your locks are all gummed up and the wafers aren't returning
  9. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    ahhhh could be - off to wd4o now then.
  10. Both locks the tailgate and engine bay, I took all the bits off as stated in the thread but the barrel wouldn't budge, I was wonder if it had anything to do with not having a key in the lock
  11. Get the catch off the tailgate and clean it up so you can see what you are doing. Near the rear of the catch, you can see a small hole on either side of the catch and when you push the button right in, a pin lines up with these holes. Push out the pin (I just used the end of a small allen key), then you can withdraw the lock. To get the barrel out of the lock, there is a very small grub screw on the 'top' of the lock near to the rear. It will probably only be visible after you clean the lock. Once this is out, the barrel will slide out - if it's really mucky and sticky, lever gently from the rear of the lock with a screw driver.
  12. Hi Owen Snell, thanks to you I've managed to take the engine bay lid lock apart :D

    But I'm having a problem with the tailgate lock, now I bought this lock with no key but it is in the unlocked position. I've taken out the grub screw which is revealed by pushing the button in but it i can't seem to pull the barrel out. Have I missed something?


    Any ideas?
  13. Sorry, not done that one.
  14. There has to be someone on here who has re-keyed a tailgate lock? If so give me a clue :)
  15. Try it with the key in. Turn & push
  16. I don't have a key for it, I'm gonna get medieval on it if I can't get the barrel out :(
  17. Zed


    I've done two recently, but they were, I think, different to yours. The barrels slipped out when the grub screw was removed.
  18. Try dubkeys as mentioned earlier. V helpful
  19. Zed


    I think I have a loose one in the workshop, I'll have a look if I remember...
  20. zed cheers mate, the engine lid lock came apart no worries but it is a different design to the tailgate. It could be just gummed up with crap, I've spray loads of penetrating oil into it today but I'm a bit loathed to start whacking it just in case I've made a numpty error :)

Share This Page