Rear wheel bearing movement

My 73 bay had acceptable 3/9 oclock movement across both rear wheels but a greater amount of 12/6 oclock top bottom.
I renewed both bearings to one side and found no improvement.
Having read bits and pieces regarding hub elongation I decided to try different hub carriers. So i just purchased another complete rear axle set (both sides) from a crashed bay (with MOT), renewed all bearings and the spacers, using a press.
Fit it all yesterday and you guessed - still has the top/bottom movement on both wheels - which the MOT man wont like.
There are none of my original parts fitted so this eliminates those items.
So - has anyone got the answer to this please, just what is happening, is it a fault? and is there a cure ?

 

I replaced the bearings in a previous camper thinking I had excessive play and it made no difference. I had had no problems with the MOT, it was just me being paranoic in the early days of camper ownership. Bearings do some have play but if you're worried put it through the MOT and see what the man says.

I assume you've torqued it up correctly.

 

I, honestly, wouldn't worry about it. There appears to be a small amount of play in these things, even with new bearings. Hopefully it doesn't upset your MOT man too much.

 

The top/bottom rock is probably double the side to side movement. I have read similar issues T2s and with the T25 and suggestions - due to hub distortion through age/load which in turn distortes the bearing outer race.The amount of top/bottom rock does not feel normal in engineering tollerance.
As the problem is in one direction, it must be a stationary part of the set up - which only points to the hub carrier really.
The bearings were pressed in with 15t press and didnt feel loose.
Hub nuts taken to proper torques.
My usual MOT man has retired, so have to locate an understanding replacement, any suggestions for mid Cornwall area??
I will measure the hubs that i removed and will keep posted if there is distortion. Had read somewhere that someone was looking as feasibility of inserts ???
In the mean time would welcome any other comments.

 

never in a million years are you going to elongate the bearing holes ,the bearings would slop about if they did and you would notice it . There are two bloody big bearings in there . Its either user error refitting them or you used cheap bearings . They will have some movement even from new .Or it could be wear on your hub splines or shaft

 

Think I would be inclined to strap a bit of flat bar or similar to the spring plate in such a position that it will provide an index mark on the ground, then rock the suspended wheel 12/6 to see if its the spring plate itself on the move. Usually badly worn splines will give slack whatever position the wheel is in.

 

Are you sure it's the bearing and not the inner bush on the A arm?
Equally you need to check the torsion bar rubbers too!!

no play at 3 & 9, will equate to no play at 12 & 6... so you need to look in other places!!

 

Thanks folks,

with the drive shaft disconnected, the movement can be seen (and felt with fingers) to be between the hub carrier and the axle shaft flange.
Bearings are new and Febi German. The spacers are also new @£12 each !
No wear was detected on the shaft, but if the axle shaft or hub splines were worn, the problem would manifest itself around 360 degrees.

The reason I mention wear/deformation/elongation is because there are similar strands regarding this matter on volkzone but no answers.

 

What've you torqued the hub nuts up to?? should be around 280-290ft/lbs

Have you measured the diameter of the shaft in relation to the bearings? As it should be a tap fit, not a straight slide in fit!!

 

Shaft nuts taken to 250 1bft and then to the next available recess in the castellated nut.

 

Sorry, forgot to say the shaft dia were not measured but were a tight enough fit. Also again - if this were the problem it wouldnt just be top bottom excess play but 360 deg.
Side to side 3/9 oclock gives very slight movement just as you would expect according to VW.

 

Well all I can suggest is you get the verniers out and do some measuring... as it would seem that you have some wear in a component somewhere!!

The reason you might not feel any 3-9 movement is the brake shoes... unless you have the drum off when you're checking for play??

 

Now, thats interesting (brake shoes) - hadnt thought of that.
Maybe the 12/6 movement is the normal amount and the 3/9 is reduced due to brake shoes.
Will still measure things up, but thanks for this suggestion Paul.

 

For what it's worth, I think you might be overly concerned. My MOT bloke failed the first one I took to him. I replaced the bearings. He said " have you done it because it seems just the same as it was". When the smoke from my ears cleared I said "Yes I ***** have". He passes them now.

 

If the shaft is a tight-ish fit in the bearing inners, and the bearings are good quality ones, that's about as good as it's going to get. There's nothing else to adjust.

Time to educate your MOT man...

 

just read this thread with interest as I had similar concerns few years ago when I changed my rear bearings any backing plates but still had play...similar advise was its normal..the outer bearing is a taper bearing and if it was dog tight it would overheat...it does help if you have Mot chap with common sense though...

 

Outer bearing is technically a cylindrical roller bearing... nothing tapered about it

fronts are tapers!!