I think the screws are interchangeable . A pointy M6 screw with a square head and a hole for a locking wire.. or a hex head with a hole.. (The best wire is Bolly cork retaining wire from the bar at Sandown park... as used by @1973daisey)
I’ve found a shoulder bolt which is worth a try for this - although I might need to adjust length. Single unit cost is £121.50. have I entered a parallel universe? https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.u...-3-4-with-1x2-Inch-Shoulder-A2-Stainless.html
Have a look on RS Components or Kayfast (on eBay) as those shoulder bolts don’t cost £121 for a single item. We use them at work and don’t pay that much.
There was a time you could have bought a Chinese lathe that might have barely made such a bolt for not much more than £120..
The same but it disassembled itself after, what, 15 months of use. Swapped it off my old bus where it operated well for 15 years for me and who knows how long for POs…
When I was garaging most were still original but the plastic bits had worn out. The only replacements available then were so poor I just used the plastic bits and chucked the rest.
Wanted to pass on a bit of experience regarding the above which isn’t widely covered elsewhere pertaining to the above issue. The bus has all been back together for a couple of weeks and the gear selection is better than ever. The cause of the issues I was experiencing was down to having the slightly longer late late gearbox in an early late bus. This makes the box push right fwd on its nose cone mount and effectively shortens the distance the two shift rods need to cover front to back. The result was that when shifting into R, 2nd or top (backwards) the front rod was maxing out the travel on the early-style pin - below cab floor - and hitting the housing. Repeated 100s of times is what led to the weakest point failing - the rear bushing. I’ve known I’ve had a ‘long’ gearbox for a while but didn’t appreciate the potential for catastrophe. The fix - which is posted on this forum somewhere by Zed - is to drill a new hole in the front shift rod shortening the overall length of the two by 10mm or so. The rear bushing is now held together by the hollow pin, which I had to manipulate to fit through the eyelet, and a bolt and nylock as the supplied screw would also not fit. Overall it’s been a PITA but an educational one…
And now you've done that, look for this in 4th. It stopped mine fully engaging but I didn't know until 4th gear was so worn by not being properly engaged it started jumping out of gear and the box had to be rebuilt.
