What’s the magic spell to get the rear bushing / cage / pin / screw assembly fitted pls? Have done it once - fell apart - got new one the OD of the pin is 1mm larger than the ID of the rod eye. Prev pin is butchered beyond use. Failing that, its going on ebay
The spring pin (haynes p110, item 22) is too big to fit through the eyelet in the rearmost shift rod. Just into my third hour of this particular pantomime, currently sanding in hope rather than expectation…
Looks like you need a CSP coupling. https://www.csp-shop.com/en/transmi...er-high-performance-798-211-311hp-29732a.html
You could, if you had a bolt the right size, but those CSP couplings are far better than any ‘Top quality’ OEM style part.
The CSP parts use a machined pin that fits the hole with a bolt into one side. So they dont crush down, dont need a crummy self-tapper engaged in a rolled up bit of tin. But they are a precise fit, and as you tighten up the clamping bolt, the urethane blocks begin to securely grip the rod. So the gearchange becomes more accurate than one using a new rolled steel pin, and can expose misalignment in the gearstick end of things (like you have to set that end up too, as too often gearchange relies on a bit of slop in the coupler because the shift plate is not quite in the right place at the front) If the gear change is really chewing the pin, please consider that it could be the hole in the end of the gearchange that is in fact damaged too. Does it look like a drilled hole between two flat faces, or is it sort of all rounded and chewed ? If its too chewed, the CSP pin wont fit either. If you can find a bolt with a non-threaded shoulder that is the right diameter (I think its something stupid like 9.5mm) , and the shoulder is what goes through the gearchange hole, then good. If its the thread, it will be so sloppy after a few miles as the thread chews up that you will be back to square one with a wonky gearchange.
If it turns out to be burring on the gearchange rod, you could apply the Dremel to the burring on the gearchange rod, make the hole fit the pin rather than sanding down the pin, or get the CSP coupler, then the polyurethane cheeks can share the work in turning the gearbox shaft ..
I would not advise enlarging the hole in the shift rod as from then on you would be stuck forever with sloppy gears.
Thanks, might try the csp one or see can I find a suitable bolt. There’s zero chance of getting a dremel anywhere near it without without engine / gearbox out which seems Ott to fit one sodding bolt. On the csp - I can only find cool air with one in the uk (£55) listed ‘without coupling screw’ do we think that’s the small square head one? Are they universal between stock and the csp? I’ll ask them too but no phone number…
This is the thing but out of stock.. https://www.justkampers.com/3117982...ng-vw-beetle-1964-on-vw-t2-bay-1967-1979.html
