I have a friend who races them, he showed me - shocks and rubber stops. I asked if that was just racing ones and he said no, that's how they are as standard.
If we’re talking about the classic Mini then there is a Moulton designed rubber cone in the subframe tower to provide the suspension.
Yes - your man invented that silly bike too didn't he? That cone stop is same as our bus front stops? and similar idea to the rear ones.
The rubber cone is the spring, as it compresses it gets firmer, shocks as as per normal cars, early minis and other British leyland stuff had hydrolastic suspension, was cool as you could lower your car by letting fluid out , I went to low and the drive shafts popped out
In as much that it’s made of rubber then yes it’s the same as our bus front stops, but it’s far larger and is a cone spring, the bump stop is separate part. Item 20 is the rubber spring, 11/12 is the bump stop.
Agreed, just meant same shape providing similar progressive effect, which (back to the original point!) you loose when you hacksaw 2/3rd of it off.
Sounds like you've got it under control, but if you get stuck with the electrics @PSG I'm local-ish and will give you a hand. I might need some help in return though - still got to do the rear brakes and find/fix an oil leak on mine.
Hi Marc Thanks for the offer thats kind i have done all of the electrics now, just the petrol heater to do. where are you from then?
I took it down to one bump on the stops as you said. took it out on a test drive today, the gears are well wafty. Got it off the drive in first, then pulled up the road, put into second, pulled out of second at the junction, still rolling, and tried to get into first, almost like there was no clutch and also no gear engagement, then realise it was trying to engage reverse. It wouldnt do the forward gears, and kept going to reverse. Then i depressed the gear lever a few times to try and disengage from the reverse 'plane' or whatever it is, and managed to get second. So i got it home and think i am going to have to seriously re-do the gear linkages from scratch, and get rid of the quick shift plate so i can see if they actually work or not. Second issue i had, was serious clunking over bumps, at first i thought it might be some of the stuf i had stored in the back (trial fitting of rock and roll bed, and left it in there) so i stopped and layed it down to eliminate that. Carried on and still clunks. So with that i drove back, in second, and listened to the clunks some more. I remembered a problem i had with a shock mount, on the LHS rear, the top shock mount has lots of movement, like it is loose. So i think that will be the clunk. The engine is still not idling right but it run and drives for now.
i have just read about clutch freeplay and i am going to have a look at this, seeing as though it is a new clutch cable, new clutch, different engine, weird gearbox etc. i will still probably take the quick shift kit off the selector to see if it makes a difference in the throw of the gear lever, it is still hitting the handbrake.
Summats up, mine doesn't go anywhere near the handbrake, nor should they obviously - makes hill starts impossible.
Just took quick shift off and it is engaging gears and better than before. Going to do another test drive round the block in a minute and see how it's changed. Engine keeps wanting to cut out on the way round. Not sure why. I did read that if you are supposed to have a condenser, and it's not attached, that could be a problem associated with dip in revs etc.
I just bolted it there so I didn't loose it. I did ask on here before and nobody could tell me what it was for, so I didn't connect it.. But I think it is a condenser. And it was on the engine before I bought it just not fitted as it had no ancillaries attached.
