Yours looks like it has a screw in plug but could be the switch, it's so covered in crap it's hard to tell.
There you go, just fitted mine and not wired it up yet. You also need the aluminium seal/washer thing that's quite thick and can make the difference whether it works or not. My old Westy was quirky - the reverse lights stayed on until you selected a forward gear.
looks like you found it i know some beetles had a extra switch something to do with the emissions hears a wiring diagram for wiring it as Zed says you will need a washer i have had issues with the jk kit that needed 2 washers
under the switch you can see a silver one under the switch in ZEds pic but yours may be fine clean or the crud off and try it
Done reverse lights just need to transfer wiring to new light unit on rhs. And yes I am out in the rain again.
Ok Today i got all of the lights done. The rhs headlight kept blowing fuses, and turned out i had used too long a wood screw to hold the headlight surround on, and gone straight through the positive wire and that's why. So i put an in-line connector/coupler on and then put a shorter screw in. In the engine bay i fitted an in-line glass 8amp fuse as i didn't have one before, and i just set the lights up to see if they would work. Still cant find out where the leak is on the panel opposite the sliding door, so i am probably going to use tiger seal up the seam and see what happens. Obviously it will need to be sorted before i build an interior, because it wont be an interior i will want damaged at all. Put in the cab mat to see what it looks like, i got an aftermarket one from ebay which is the same as this, i think - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-T2-Bay...045065?hash=item2ee812d989:g:W-AAAOSw14xWO49B and it looks awesome, fits perfectly. Well pleased. @Barry Haynes sent me a walkthrough mat today and it is just as described, and very good condition for a second hand item, so props to Barry for being reliable, would recommend to anyone who doesnt know him. So next is to put the bump stops back on, i have cut to the first line, but i think this is not going to be enough, @zed do you think i should do two lumps or not? i will drop the van off axle stands on sunday (tomorrow i am off to Aston Hill Bike Park to sh!t myself on my bike) and see how it sits with just 1 lump off. Once the bump stops are on, i will be taking it for a spin round the block. Can i pass MOT with static seatbelts? I also need to test the windscreen washers, actually dont remember seing a washer bottle in the cab area so will have to have a look at that. I think it is missing actually, there is a thick black cable with a female terminal on the end which i was wondering about today and i reckon that is for the bottle pump. Will have to check that and put a wanted ad up on the classifieds. Laterz.
You are somewhere between 1 and 2 splines down at the back, so I'd cut off 2 leaving one. New ones are not expensive if you muck it up.
In the interests of science, it's worth noting that the rear bump stops are more than a hard stop, they are part of the suspension. The less of it there is, the harder the suspension and the more of a hard stop they become. Ideally you'd keep the lot and reposition it. Mini's only have bump stops at the front as suspension, no springs at all.
I did think about repositioning them but there's no rush. I can buy new bump stops in the future and so that.
