Given you arent pulling the starter often, another route would be a hex socket headed m10 bolt in place of the stud..
Could you use a smaller nut then re tap the centre threads to make it fit? Iv never done this with nuts but did make some m9 bolts by re taping M10 2 mins work and lot cheaper than postage costs
If you’ve got more clearance further away from the stud, would a 40mm long nut give you spanner access? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Think it’s even tighter further away from the flange. 16mm headed m10 nut or m10 cap head allen bolt as Mike suggested is the way to go
Send the pic to Powerlite for their comments. It could be the motor has not been indexed correctly on the adapter.
Reply from Powerlite below. I’m quite happy with this, they sound like they have proper after sales service. Of course still leaves me with an issue. I’ll just go for a 15mm hex M10 even if it takes a bit of flange filing. Thanks for the suggestions though- the Replacing the stud with M10 Allen bolt is probably most elegant, but I’ll go for the easiest worth considering these Powerlite little issues if anyone’s thinking about a purchase, because there’s wiring extensions too. Saying that I’m perfectly happy with its performance - turns over strong as an ox
15mm flange filed, fits much better, may still go for Allen bolt though as spanner access not quiet what it should be . Motor Works a treat though, this was definitely the fault
Gonna give this Joker spanner a go. This grips every 15 degrees and I reckon should work with this confined position
Look how far that nut goes into the Wera spanner before it engages in the driving teeth. It wont win you anything if the tips of the spanner hit the starter body.You may have to grind the end of the jaws off, then you might as well take a good quality 12 point socket and chop the side off.. One reason normal spanners have the end cranked over by is so that by turning it over 180 degrees on every operation, you can make it work with only 30 degrees of swing .. Cant you rotate the starter motor as suggested by loosening the bolts on the flywheel side of the fixing plate ? Then you just move the motor part around a few degrees, and then a socket will fit..
You may well be right as the nut does slide right in the spanner, it’s impossible to tell without trying as the shape of the starter body wall there is complicated. We’ll see. Redrilling the face place would work for sure.
I’ve just experienced the same fitting 1 to a Beetle/Subaru conversion, I cut an old spanner in half to help getting the nut on.
So I’m not going mad! I think Powerlite have cocked up here as the bolt space is set in an awkward area, a few mm further round and it’d be ok, and the space is there for it too. spanner in half, shouldn’t have to do that really. I may be doing this soon though
