Pan’s Engine Bay Refresh

Discussion in 'How To' started by PanZer, Aug 8, 2020.

  1. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    I'd just clean up and try and get a thick bead of seam sealer along the gap in that case. :thumbsup:
     
    PanZer likes this.
  2. Fuel Hole Surgery.
    Must be how my brother operates every day...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...mask and head torch on.
    No sexy nurse though!
    Need Megan Fox from Transformers to mop my brow...of icicles!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Valveandy, paradox and MorkC68 like this.
  3. About to start cleaning the vents, fuel tank bay and engine bay, ready for rust treatment then on to the fun part.

    I think the cleaning process is going to take longer than the painting!

    A suitable playlist must be selected.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Valveandy likes this.
  4. Some progress pics...don’t look too closely!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Another coat has gone on since these. Hopefully finish, whilst multi-tasking other bits, by Valentine’s Day - it better buy me chocolate! It looks a bit chocolatey.

    Then it’s on to the chassis.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    F_Pantos, paulcalf and Valveandy like this.
  5. Seam sealing is proving to be trickier than anticipated...which I should have anticipated!

    This gap, between the wheel arch and outer panel on the left hand side of the Fuel Tank Bay is too big to fill with seam sealer...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I’m having to apply it by finger, but the gap is bigger than a finger so it is just pushing through.

    Can I bridge/fill the gap with strips of butyl tape then seam seal over that?

    The gap goes right through to the engine bay so i’m keen to fill it - gap is even bigger in the engine bay (see pics in previous post...which meant I managed to get a couple of decent coats of paint in there and will do a 3rd).

    Cheers


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. Squidge a bead of seam of seam sealer in there then leave it to set
    Then that will have packed it out a bit and allow you to build it up with another layer.

    Or cut some closed cell foam like a camping kip mat to shape and use that as a packer before seam sealing.

    It’s not ideal but sometimes you have to do the best with what you have
     
    PanZer and paulcalf like this.
  7. Yep, i’m in the “not ideal” zone!

    I have flame-retardant butyl tape. Is that no good for the job?

    If not, I do have insulation foam (adhesive backed) that is closed cell.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. I’m not sure on the butyl tape
     
    PanZer likes this.
  9. No worries. I’ll do a tester outside the bay to see if it adheres.

    This topic should be Pan’s Engine Bay OVERHAUL!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. as far as I am aware Butyl tape is soft and never goes off ... I have some here for sealing deck fittings and windows on the boat ... it sounds like you need something that will go hard.
     
    PanZer likes this.
  11. Yes, it does stay soft and tacky. I’ll be putting seam sealer over the top of it too though (which should go off), to take a final coat of paint.
    Thing is, as a flexible tape it will be relatively easy to get in to a tough place to work within.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. Your correct butyl rubber doesn’t set and remains flexible.
    I’ve used it under the seal on my windscreen
    It’s also what is on the back of sound deadening mat like silent coat etc.

    I don’t know how it would react with the solvents and other chemicals in the seam sealer.
     
    PanZer likes this.
  13. @PanZer
    You do know that Vw never used seam sealer there.
    They used a foam strip between the flatter edge of the arch tub and the outer panel.
     
    PanZer likes this.
  14. Nope, didn’t know that. There was a perished foam strip there but it didn’t fill the gap. The repairs on this thing are all outa whack - nothing lines up or has been done properly before.

    I just figured seam sealer was good for gaps - it was a pretty hard sealant of some sort there before.

    These wheel tubs were slightly rusted, I guess, because of gaps underneath them where they meet the panels. Badly done under seal with no prep there. I was going to seam sealer them too when I get underneath.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. What does it look like under the arch
    The tub should join the outer panel on the folded arch lip
    Can you get a pic?
     
  16. I’m covered in seam sealer Need to train now
    Will do pic tomorrow of underneath if that’s ok. It’s only tack welded I think.

    Cheers dude.
    Seen i’ve missed painting a few bits even on 2 coats - same with the vents. So hard to see some of the places, but easy enough to get to. Rustoleum works well off a finger and hand.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17.  
    PanZer likes this.
  18. He stole my moves!!
    Incidentally, I find zebra striped hot pants draw less attention.

    Seam sealer on butyl tape...it sticks...
    [​IMG]

    Photos from underneath...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can just about see some splodges of paint have come through from inside (copper on left, white on right). So i’ve managed to get in there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  19. Great thread and really useful to see. As you say people are really helpful here and what is also great is seeing the step by step process we all go through, so thanks.

    My oil leak has lead me down a full engine strip and I'm just starting the rebuild. So with my engine out, I'm inspired by the clean engine bays you guys are achieving. I just have to decide what to prioritise...more reso or bug it back together and enjoy, especially with lockdown 'pressure cooker' release value ready to explode;)
     
    mcswiggs and PanZer like this.
  20. So much gratitude for all the help - i’d honestly would have had to give up and sell if it wasn’t for these guys.

    I’ll be brutally honest with this engine bay refresh.
    It’s been a nightmare! However, it was pretty bad before so i’ve had a lot to do - plus I do try my best...which takes ages.

    Probably, when i’m done, it will have taken 2 months (I work on it 6 days a week but spend half my time researching), to complete. That’s Vents, Fuel Tank Bay, Engine Bay and the surround for the Boot Hatch.

    It’s all mostly been taken down to bare metal because I don’t trust this thing for rust. The stages just seemed to get harder as i’ve gone along because it’s impossible to see and work on areas, like up the vents and round the wheel arches, at the same time - it’s done blind (with lots of photos to see what’s been missed). Sanding blind is easier than painting blind...trying to get sticky sealant where you want it but can’t see, well lol

    I’ve acquired better techniques and tools along the way so i’m sure someone else could get a leg up from that and do it much faster than me!

    It’s awkward and painful (being single digit temperatures hasn’t helped ). I’m 44, athletic, normal build and physically struggled doing it.

    Having said all that, I will be so glad i’ve done it when i’m finished! It will be sound, safe, easy to maintain and look cool.

    So, it depends how far you want to go. Engine Bay on its own is very doable and the easiest. With the engine out though it is the only chance to do the vents and Fuel Tank Bay etc. If you can drop the engine yourself and have a garage you can do it in stages.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Popsy, paulcalf and Chrisd like this.

Share This Page