Pan’s Engine Bay Refresh

Discussion in 'How To' started by PanZer, Aug 8, 2020.

  1. With the engine out for a few weeks it gives me the opportunity to freshen up everything I can reach.

    To avoid any schoolboy errors there are a few questions and verifications for folk to ponder.

    Firstly, I want to remove the ceiling grill to paint and see what it hides. I believe it’s just riveted in place, plus some bent over retaining clips. The metal looks fine for sanding and painting but i’ve no idea what the material is that it sandwiches. Any ideas on what to buy?
    [​IMG]

    I’ll sand down everything I can reach, make any repairs then paint. Seems I can reach a lot...
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    I’ll remove the firewall (think that’s what it is) to get to the fuel tank, as I can see from above that it isn’t perfect...
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    Should I sand what I can, rust treat and paint the outside of the tank?

    The fuel line has been clamped (we’ll change them) so i’m wondering if I should drain the tank (maybe 10L in it). Is there any danger of leaving it dry for a couple of weeks?

    Overall it’s not too bad. Battery trays are solid...bit of filler already in other places I can see so i’ll replicate that.

    All the wiring is out the way now. Incidentally, with the rear lights housing off it is very easy to reach up the air vent all the way to the bottom of the grill.
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    I’ll also be doing the best job I can in there, but the priority is the engine bay itself right now.

    As always, many thanks in advance guys!


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    scrooge95 likes this.
  2. Remove the firewall and the tank

    There’s two hidden screws at the bottom of the firewall underneath
    When you undo the bolts underneath for the tank straps hold the straps with some mole grips otherwise there’s a chance the straps will twist and snap

    Inside the tank housing and wheel tub areas
    Clean them up and remove as much corrosion as possible
    Prep prime and paint in there
    When the paint has fully cured fit sound deadning pads then cavity wax absolutely everywhere you can get.
    Clean and inspect the tank and if in good condition give it a coat of paint and refit
    Fit new breather hoses,new steel filler to tank hose and new steel filler to body rubber neck.

    Get yourself something comfy to kneel on you’ll be spending quite some time in the engine bay to do a good job
     
    Popsy, Iain McAvoy, nicktuft and 4 others like this.
  3. Stick more pics up of the different areas of your engine bay for us to look at
    There shouldn’t be much filler used in there
    What’s it like around the edge of your battery trays where it meets the body?
     
    Moons likes this.
  4. Firewall off - someone beat me to it with the screws underneath
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    So the tank has small breather pipes coming directly off it, connecting to the main pipes with those cloth-like sleeves. So disconnect all of that prior to removal.

    For draining it, does the fuel flow with gravity right through the system or do things like pump & fuel filter prevent that? Trying to figure out the easiest place to drain it from

    Ugly bodywork photos to come (not that many to be fair) - I need a coffee
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  5. The braided pipe is original you may well find it just crumbles when you pull at it.
    Just gravity drain the tank through the hose on the outlet.
    Get some penetrating oil on those tank strap nuts as they are often a bugger to get undone

    Take your time moving the nut up and down a bit at a time when you come to un do them adding more oil once in a while.

    You will need a deep socket
     
    Moons and PanZer like this.
  6. I really do love how much you guys know, and how freely you transfer that knowledge. Really can’t thank you enough!
    Maybe one day i’ll just tour around the UK buying beer for everyone as I go
    Probably cost as much as a new van though lol
    Perhaps i’ll go on the


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    Day, S1mon and scrooge95 like this.
  7. ..
     
  8. Btw it's compulsory if you have the engine out to post up a selfie of your head in the engine bay:thumbsup:
     
    Day, PanZer and paradox like this.
  9. [​IMG]

    Your wish is my command!


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    mgbman, Kruger, nicktuft and 12 others like this.
  10. That's the spirit:D
     
    PanZer likes this.
  11. It’s one of those jobs that you think will take a few days and ends up being weeks Damned corrugated and perforated pieces...plus someone was sponsored by Seam Sealer I think - it’s everywhere and lavished on more liberally than icing on a cake (not half as beautifully crafted).

    Anyway, i’m several days away from getting all the paint removed. A few more repairs than expected (post about that later). Time to start ordering bits.

    Fuel Tank stuff (not removed yet as collecting a Long Socket Set today):
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Couldn’t see the little Vapour Pipe connectors. Is silicone hose with clips ok for that?

    Soundproofing:
    [​IMG]
    For replacing the cavity between that perforated partition ceiling and the bed base. Says it has a reflective face. If that’s an issue I can cover it somehow.

    [​IMG]
    For the Fuel Tank etc.
    Figured this stuff is lighter than sound deadening lead flashing tape.

    If no objections i’ll press ‘pay’ on the above
    Cheers guys.


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  12. Use fuel pipe for the breather pipe connections
    Use silent coat pads for the fuel tank area and on top of the arch tubs aswell as the rear of the firewall
    That whole area acts as one big resonation chamber
    The reason for them is to add
    Mass to the panels to stop them resonating
    Also add them to the engine bay ceiling then fit the foam over the top

    The pads stop the resonation and the foam absorbs noise travelling through the air from the engine.
     
    yorkieman and PanZer like this.
  13. Ps

    Put up some pictures of all the areas of the engine bay so we can tell you if anything might need attention and advise accordingly

    Seam sealer and filler could be hiding all sorts of nasties that if not sorted now could cause you hassle down the line.

    It’s one place where you really want to spend the time and put the effort in but many rarely do.
     
    PanZer likes this.
  14. I had a picture of me 25 years ago the first time I took my 1700 engine out. I'm in the distance on my driveway, in the engine compartment with 30ft of foreground driveway almost covered with tinware, 2 engines, exhausts, fan housings...
    It took me a month or two to get back to up and running. I bought a TRUNK full of type-4 tineware for £20 including the trunk at a car boot sale.
     
    Mark Darby and PanZer like this.
  15. That sounds like a great photo! One worth digging out.
    The trunks I have to go in my van cost over £60 a piece - no tinware thrown in
    [​IMG]
    But they save on an awful lot of carpentry to add extra storage, plus can be removed and used as seats outside or foot rests in front of the bench


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    Day likes this.
  16. Ok...the good, the bad and the darn right ugly!

    Most of it actually looks pretty good and solid. As usual the engine bay follows the same percentages as the rest of the van (80% good, 10% bad but I can salvage, 10% a complete nightmare needing a pro).

    LHS Battery Tray looks great:
    [​IMG]

    Compare that to the RHS one though:
    [​IMG]
    That’s a 15mm pipe connector as a gap size guide. The whole space (plenty above and below) was what I think is Seam Sealer (rubbery, took a paint, family stiff, smells slightly sweet - it’s everywhere, often excessively so).

    [​IMG]
    This hole was just covered up with the stuff like plaster.

    [​IMG]
    The RHS Battery Tray was just connected to the main body bit with the rubber stuff...quite a gap along it too.

    [​IMG]
    Hole punched through below Vapour Pipe just had painted tape on it - I thought it was fibreglass before, but no, just tape

    [​IMG]
    Where the new welded panels are was covered in the seam sealer...there is quite a lip there that was made to look smoothish.

    On to filler...
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    [​IMG]
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    Both corners at Hatch opening plus a bit by the LHS Wheel Arch.

    Now the ugly...
    [​IMG]

    Both top bits of the Hatch.


    The replacement engine is setting me back 3yrs of debt payment. Although I want the best possible engine bay to put it back in I just don’t have any money. So if there is anything I can do about these issues myself (even if it’s just good for a few years) then that’s how I have to proceed.

    I’m going shopping, so I can see humans for a change...assuming there are still some out there. lol


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  17. Get a big tub of seam sealer. You knock it, but maybe the last owner was in exactly the same position. :)

    It's fine to glue the battery tray to the outer body panel btw and done thoughtfully rather than lazily to avoid spoiling the paint on the outside. Likewise plastering it over welded panel joins is a good idea to keep the damp out.

    You do have a couple of small rusty bits though. I'd be comcerned about the high level ones, how does the water get there? You probably don't want to look right now but if you peeled back the lower corners of your rear hatch seal you might find out.
     
    PanZer likes this.
  18. Yup mine had water ingress in there
    It was tracking through a tiny gap in the rear hatch seal channel in the bottom corner
    [​IMG]
     
    PanZer likes this.
  19. Your going to have to get some welding done in there I’m afraid

    The concern is that once you start unpicking those corroded areas you may find worse underneath
    When they go either side of the engine bay there they quite often rot out the tops of the chassis rails aswell
    Muck gets stuck between the chassis rails and the sheet steel on top
    The muck stays damp and starts rotting out.
    There’s also a good chance your inner d posts may be rotten they often are at the bottom and with that much water ingress over time to rot the tops out it may have gone further up than most.

    I know it’s not what you want to hear those areas are structural though so really shouldn’t just be covered back up.

    Take off your bumper and mounts and have a poke about your chassis rails at the rear
    Also around the chassis rails around where the rear torsion tube passes through
     
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