Oil seals

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by iblaze, Nov 15, 2020.

  1. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Two questions
    What oil seals do I need to buy I've already bought the little seals for the oil cooler and an Ealing seal for the flywheel. Are there any others i need?
    Also to remove the flywheel is it a normal thread as I've swung on my torque wernch and its not budged.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What seals depends on what jobs you're doing, but there's an o-ring in the flywheel too.

    The gland nut is tight...very tight.
     
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  3. You’ll need about twice the length of that torque wrench to get enough purchase to loosen the flywheel nut. A piece of pipe over the shaft might work. :thumbsup:
     
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  4. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I'm just replacing pushrod tubes and fixing the oil leak that looks like it's coming from the flywheel, clutch plate is soaked in oil. So I assume its spraying everywhere.


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  5. If you're not splitting the case, can't think of any other seals. Best to buy a complete seal/gasket set (Elring/Reinz).

    Normal thread on the gland nut. You'll need to lock the flywheel and heave on a breaker bar, poss with an extension on it. Or use a big rattle gun if you've got one. Don't snap the corner off the case ;)

    <edit> Apart from pushrod seals ;)
     
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  6. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    I wouldn't use your torque wrench if you are going to put a tube on for greater purchase and raunge , if it bends you might wreck it .
     
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  7. ^this. You'll bust it.
     
  8. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    Yep, please don't swing on your torque wrench. It's for doing things up :D
     
  9. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Or find somebody who will lend .. or buy a Torque Meister.

    This uses gearing so you can get to the 250 ft lb region using an 11mm socket and a low setting on the torque wrench. It also avoids having to hold down the engine case, as the gears react against the case and a flywheel lock.

    No messing with big extension bars or risking breaking torque wrenches "just because its the longest socket wrench in the toolbox"
     
    Patrick Nguyen likes this.
  10. If you are near South East London, I can lend you mine. It is a fantastic tool. Puts a smile on my face everytime I use it.
     
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  11. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Cheers Patrick but I'm not far from Liverpool
    This thing is becoming a headache
    It's still not off and all I've managed to do is bend a stud.[​IMG]

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    Bob Alatt likes this.
  12. Right old mess :(

    It needs a shock rather than gradual pressure , i`ve resorted to a cold chisel and big hammer before now AND reused the nut - keep it to yourself ok ??
    :oops:

    :hattip:
     
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  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    A job I did once before forking out for Torquemeister which sadly I sold a year or two ago or you'd be welcome.
     
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  14. :eek:
     
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  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Your best bet is a much longer piece of bar across two clutch bolts, much, much longer, end against the ground, bar with scaffold extension, scissor action. If you suspect you may EVER have to do this again, now's the time to buy the gadget IMO.
     
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  16. Where abouts are you buddy? I’m in manc with said torque multiplier...
     
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  17. If there's a MachineMart near you, nip out and buy one of their mains-powered electric rattle guns (and suitable impact socket). Works for me.
     
  18. [​IMG]
     
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  19. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Lift your engine into your run around if poss ...and take it to a tyre fitting company or a commercial vehicle company and get them to wazz it off with with air tool .
     
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  20. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    I used a (very) long sash clamp bar. Stopping the flywheel from turning / engine moving around is half the job, the rest is leverage :D
     
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