so engine is in left it over night with oil in and yes theres a few drips looks to be from the tubes there horizontal 4 both sides few seem to be a bit dented and they move side to side is ths normal ? allso it seems to be leaking at the ends were the tubes end sorry for basic translation
If its is a T1 (fan on top) engine , the tubes should be pretty well fixed in by the pressure on the seals at both end, as they are meant to be 'stretched' to a specific length so that as the heads are torqued down, the springiness of the tube pushes against the seals at the cylinder head and the engine block ends of the tube. If its a T4 engine (fan at back) then there are meant to be springs in the cylinder head pushing the tubes onto seals on the engine block end of the tube, and the tubes are pushed through the cylinder head to squash the seals on the cylinder head end. In any case : If they are loose enough to move around and drip oil with the engine stopped you will destroy the engine when all the oil pours out through the gaps. You can either take the engine out remove cylinder heads and re-do the tubes by stretching them if it is a T1, or fit expensive spring loaded tubes while the cylinder heads are on, and fiddle it all with the engine in. In the case of the T4 engine this can be done more easily with taking off the rocker covers. I dont know if you can get the tubes in from the 'outside' if the engine is still in.
Rocker gear off, fish out push rods, pull out the tubes and fit new seals, clean clean clean the recesses in block and heads. They shouldn't move. You'll need to set the gaps after. fine to do engine in van.
I think the engine's a type 1, in which case it's engine out, heads off and change the tubes and seals. They will widdle oil out if not fixed.
cheers buddy knew u would no so in basic terms i drain oil rockers off then i can unbolt head i presume can i ? then these tubes are spring loaded onto the seals and the gaps is that what i can see under the rockers !! is it a big job for a beginner
keep telling me this as i was gutted to see spots,allso the tubes are a bit dented do i replace theses allso ?
No. Don't drain oil, no need. Don't remove heads. The tubes push through the heads. Get new ones and get either an elring gasket set or some decent o-rings. What I wrote before is all you have to do apart from taking off the rocker covers. Take your time getting the recesses the tubes fit into squeaky clean. When you refit the tubes mind they don't get nipped at the top (head end - you'll see when you fit) It's a simple job as they go. If it had been a T1 engine you'd be stripping it down.
Dude, wait for @zed . Don't take head off! edit: Phew Daisy works at a manic pace. I feared he'd drop the engine out before Zed replied!
sorry bud im a pain in the back side just want to do it properly and you guys are brill i was really panicing !! he makes it sound so easy !! and i relly wanna drive this bus still not drove it lol
I'm aware of that, the man obviously can't sit down without getting straight up again and doing something else! I bet he's good for keeping the fire going when you're camping though.
im on my drive every night even just for an hour !! want it done for spring !! finished for the night to research this job,
i may have uses then lol u guys got me in stitches here having the night off !! camper mart tomoz im not far ill pop up there in morning try get these parts and well this is tomoz job !! i got filla gauges whats the gap suppost to be bud
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares...8929084.htm?crumbStartPage=2&crumbStartRow=16 this do the trick
good advise I got too from Paul Weeding was make sure the retaining clip pushes on the push rod tube in the head when you rebuild it, it's not that easy to see so I used a mirror ....and yes get em very clean where they seat. I spent longer cleaning than the mechanical side.
I know that feeling very well, it's endless and if you don't keep going it won't get done. But every tiny bit is forwards, even 20 minutes if that's all that's available.
