Apologies for the duplicate thread if anyone has read it but think i've narrowed it down.. An electrical spade connection going from the + side of the coil has touched earth and created a short (melted the cable).. Now there does not seem to be any power going to the coil when cranking the engine over and the engine will only fire when you release the key. Any ideas if something electrical has failed?
The supply to the ignition supply isn't fused, so if you've shorted it to the crankcase, it's likely damaged the wiring and ignition switch. Likely that the ignition switch has burnt out. If you run a wire from the battery +ve to the coil, the engine should start. Replacing the switch is likely to be the solution.
i think it is fused, have a look at the seconf fuse from the left in the fuse box, im not 100% sure but check if any fuses have blown, it only takes a second.
If its trying to fire when you release the key then your getting power to the coil just at the wrong point on the key turn then your losing it again Id put my money on the ignition switch If yours is the later plug in style switch you can pull the wiring off it by reaching up inside the steering coloumb shroud and pulling the plug This will allow you to plug a new switch in and turn it with a flat bladed screwdriver to see if it cures it without taking all the steering columb apart
Depends, my 72 beetle was fused, my mini too, I was working on my bay last week on an ignition issue and there was a fuse, I replaced the ignition switch( £4 ish from GSF) the fuse had overheated and opened up the contacts in the fuse box the starter wire wasn't fused, mine is an import though, either way its worth a look at the fuse board for completeness. Also I would check the points and condenser as dropping the coil to earth will overheat them
i think the whole world is aware of stuff like this already . A bus must be the easiest vehicle in the world to hot start.
Thanks guys - i'll try running a wire from + side of the battery to the coil to see if it will start while the key is in the cranking position - if it does sounds like it could be the ignition switch. Can I replace the switch without fitting a whole new barrel as I currently have a single key fits all and would like to try and keep it that way if I can. Mine is a 72 late bay swedish import. ps - all the fuses look ok to me.
No need to change the barrel dude just the switch that sits on the bottom of it Yours being a 72 wont be a plug on switch
Just tried a wire straight from the battery and it fired up straight away, so looks like a new ignition switch, unless there is anything else between the ignition switch and the coil which could have blown? On the basis that it is the switch, is it an easy job? just like to try and establish whats involved before I start the job.
On this basis what other cables at the cab end can be ran through an immobilizer to ensure this can't be done? Or isn't there?
none If you can get into the engine bay you can start it immobilizer or not its the same as most old cars its the mechanical items that offer the security
Steering lock is the most effective security device fitted, the ignition system takes 2 second to bypass, even at the ignition switch end. A wheel clamp perhaps and keep your engine hatch locked
Engine lid lock (although these have a fatal design flaw), and...engage your steering wheel lock! It's pretty hefty.
